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 ADVANCED
Science Friction & Windward Walls
Select Route:
1993: A face Odyssey T,S 
Blender Head T 
Good Clean Fun S 
Little Bits T,TR 
Pub Draught Guinness T 
Scar Trek T 
Short Timing T,TR 
Storm Warning T 
Windward Passage, The T 

Blender Head 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Kear, Greg Newmark, Dave Benyak 8/13/95
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jun 7, 2009

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Description 

See Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) for a good description.

Schein's guide indicates to belay P2 near a tree. We set a belay lower at about 30 meters from the start, just right of the short chimney (semi-hanging belay). From that lower belay one can head up about 10 feet, get in some pro, and traverse left to the finger crack. If the belay is set this way, I'd give the second pitch a "great" rating, and first pitch is "okay" to "good" and needs pruning as of June 2009.

Location 

Starts about 50 feet up and left of Good Clean Fun on an ample ledge with two alder trees (June 2009): one young and short, one around five inches in diameter and broken off at the trunk.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 4 inches.


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