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Chocolate Factory
Routes Sorted
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Andy Man Can, The T 
Augustus Gloop S 
Babinski sign  S 
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 
Bleak December S 
Buttercup S 
Cat's Demise S 
Charlie T 
Chocolate River S 
Easy Pickins T 
EGBG S 
Enkidu S 
Fickelgruber T 
For Your Health S 
Gene Wilder S 
Gilgamesh S 
Glass Elevator, The S 
Gobstopper S 
Golden Ticket S 
Grumpalump S 
Hip to the Jive S 
Icebreaker S 
J Rat's Back S 
Loompa S 
Malice S 
Mike Teavee S 
Molten S 
Mr. P. S 
Naked S 
One Side Makes You Taller S 
Oompa S 
Pure Imagination S 
robotic thumb S 
Snozzberries S 
Strongyloides T 
Sugar Rush S 
Swedish Fish S 
Team Tough on Tour S 
Throbbing Emotions S 
Through the Looking Glass T 
Willy Wonka S 
Wonkaholic S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bleak December 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Mann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Andrew Mann on Dec 11, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The wall. The route. There is an unlabeled route...

Description 

An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.

Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.

Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...


Location 

Currently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.

From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.

Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).


Protection 

6 bolts and anchors.



Comments on Bleak December Add Comment
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By Andrew Mann
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2012

As suspected, some of the tiny crimps have broken away in the lower crux. No worries, a better route for it. Consensus by the end of this season is at solid 5.12b, which I had a sneaky feeling it was to begin with. Climb on.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jun 18, 2013

This is one of the best pages I have seen for a low end 5.12 on the site. Well done Andrew!