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P1: Climb the dihedral and cracks up to a low angle ramp, belay at the base of the ramp(how it is done most often, possibly) or about midway up the ramp(I recommend, risk drag though), or go all the way to the slab up top with a small crack for nuts(no drag here, but might have issues wth the p1 follow belay). About 5.8 I would say, but very short crux. This is a fun pitch, and you can walk off it "crag left" back to the base of Swim Fin.
P2: Lots of variations. Go straight up above the small vertical crack(No protection?) at the top of the slab, or traverse left about 20 ft on shelf into another crack, good pro, but some runout midway on the face. 5.5 - 5.6 range.
This is a good route to do if you want to try runout, but on ultra easy climbing.
I recommend the left 2nd pitch.
I think you can walk off by jumping the chasm and heading Northish? Or just get on the obviously visible set of chains and rap down.
I think this route has been seeing some traffic lately. It is not spectacular, but fun climbing and worth doing if you are into moderate trad and easy runout.
I lean to calling it PG13 on this site because of the runout on the ramp and on the 2nd pitch. Either way it is 5.7/8 and 5.5/6R. Although falling should be unlikely, it would be nasty.
Actually on Blazing Fin. In the slot canyon on Swim Fin, Scramble down and left to the base of Blazing Fin, there will be a broken corner with a dihedral and crack, right of a huge "V-Slot"(huge vertical gully-ish cutout).
1 set of nuts, 1 set of cams: #0.3 to #3 C4, maybe 2 sizes below 0.3 also.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the climb. The first ...
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
very cool climb!
|By Boodge Nomchompski|
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
First pitch is delicious for a new trad leader. The pro is obvious and on great stances. Decent exposure if you look out to your right.
|By Jim Sauer|
Aug 8, 2010
Did it today and loved it. I belayed from the small crack at the base of the 2nd pitch and got in one piece before the major runout. (I pretty much climbed the face directly, heading up and left. It was ground/ledge fall territory, but, as promised, straightforward climbing.)
Rather than belay from the two bolts at the top, I crossed the "jump" and belayed from the other side, so as to be on belay for the crossing, and to keep my partner on. I found a decent cam placement and slung a boulder on the other side. The "jump" wasn't that bad for me (though a little heady for my partner). Walkoff was easy... right to the back of Nancy's Thumb -- a good place to stash whatever you don't want to climb with.