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Eagle Bluff
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Witch Wonder T 

Blaze of Glory 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JB, WS 10/1990
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: maineah on May 3, 2011

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Description 

Climb up vertical rock on mostly positive holds. This route is unique due to the absence of the usual Clifton “crystal pinching.” The dike futures offer an array of jugs, side pulls, and a few pockets. The crux comes about mid way up the climb where you need to place a cam in a horizontal and make a move up to a nice side pull/jug.

Location 

Looking at the main face, walk along bottom of cliff to the right of Witch Wonder about 60 ft. The bolt line begins above a small low angle slab.

Protection 

The route is sport with one very notable exception. You will need a cam (BD size 0.75) to protect crux. There is an obvious horizontal crack to plug the cam into. Be sure to place the cam in the left side of the crack where crack is parallel, and not in the slightly flaring middle portion of the crack. There are bolt anchors at the top.


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