Climb a flake until it is possible to traverse left onto an obvious ramp. Make sure to sling long anything you set behind the flake, and be aware that the whole flake sounds hollow. Since the crux seemed to come while moving onto the ramp and the pro is a bit questionable for that, I felt it earns a mild PG-13 rating. The holds are huge, so it's probably easier to just plan not to fall. From there, climb a hand crack, passing the odd cobble, to the belay below a huge boulder. An obvious crack on the boulder provides a belay and potential second pitch.
Follow the approach instructions from Trip Master Monkey. Alternately, find the arete on Dirty Pictures From the Prom, and aim for that. It is just right of an obvious cracked, egg shaped boulder, which is the boulder mentioned in the description. The top of Blaster Junior is the start of Dirty Pictures From the Prom. Walk off via a gully to the right.
Fingers to fists, maybe doubles from #1.5 to #3.5 Friend. You'll need a few good, hand-sized pieces for the anchor. A couple of long slings for extending pieces at the flake, or you'll be towing a boat anchor by the time you get to the top.
|Comments on Blaster Junior aka Master Debater
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
May 19, 2009
Upon its first ascent, Harper and Jurkowitsch named this route "Master Debater", a renaming that did not survive the critical eye of Heel and Toe's other co-author, Rob Kelman.
Still, this is a spectacular route, and definitely worth doing.
|By Handsome B. Wonderful|
May 27, 2009
I climbed the boulder crack above Blaster Junior a couple years ago. I called it Green Eggs. I asked around and nobody thought it had been done. It required a lot of lead cleaning, but it was fun and maybe .10+. It is for sure worth doing.