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Christianity Spire
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Blast from the Past (Isaac's Rt) T 

Blast from the Past (Isaac's Rt) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Isaac & LB
Season: sunny (good cool weather climb)
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: markguycan on Dec 31, 2008

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friend captured this picture of lucas n I on 1st p...

Description 

Awesome 1st pitch: face climb past a bolt to hand and fist crack in R facing corner 160ft- bolted anchor. P2 5.8 chimney, P3 short traverse R from top of chimney to bolted anchors. P4 traverse R then up diagonal choss-fest,poor pro. P5 traverse R and up to large ledge on East face of summit.

Location 

SW face

Protection 

double set tcu's to #4 camalot,+ nuts.


Photos of Blast from the Past (Isaac's Rt) Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet rarely achieved summit!
Sweet rarely achieved summit!
Andrew passing the crux on pitch 1
Andrew passing the crux on pitch 1
Not the recommended way! Follow the huge ledge bel...
Not the recommended way! Follow the huge ledge bel...
Lucas following 1st pitch!
Lucas following 1st pitch!

Comments on Blast from the Past (Isaac's Rt) Add Comment
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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2008

possible, even recommended to climb and rap from the top of the first pitch; do subsequent pitches only if you want to bag the killer summit.
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 5, 2009

Just want to add to keep a close eye out for the traverse at the end of P2. You can't see the belay bolts from where the traverse starts, and it's real easy to miss it.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Feb 20, 2009

thanks Kole, we continued on up missing the bolts onto some run out face, decided that WASNOT the way to go and doun climbed to find the anchors.
By Dean Hoffman
Nov 3, 2009

I remember when this was rated 5.9! It seems that it felt hard even as 5.10. It also seems that there was only one set of bolt anchors at the top of the second and somehow we had to do a terrifying rope stretching traverse to a manky tree belay on the third pitch. The old sheet metal bolt hangers on the rap/old aid route were pretty sweet though.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 19, 2010

The first pitch is awesome and burly - I felt the crux was mainly just endurance through strenuous cupped hands and fists. It would have been nice to save a #3 for the last bit before the anchors, but the climbing is much easier.

Also, I replaced the tat at the 1st anchor (Jan 2010)
By Tony Montana
From: Wilmer, BC
Jan 6, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pitch 1 is long and burly. Upper pitches were fun and definitely as good as many other summit routes. All anchors are bolted and in good condition. Three pitches to summit scramble. Pitch 2 up through stem crux, traverse right across little foot ledges after stem chimney. Pitch 3, avoid right leaning choss groove above terrace, it sucks big time, rather do an easy rope stretcher runnout traverse up and right to the large balcony slab and traverse around the corner about 40 feet to the clean left angling groove, climb up and traverse right again 20 feet to the bolted anchor/little tree on top of the Beckey route and the first rap off, may have to simulclimb a little if using a 60.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 19, 2015

Some gear beta for those who enjoy light packs: you can safely do this route with no #3 or #4 C4 camalots. Just bring triples of blue and purple TCUs to put in the convenient tips crack. Also if you can get solid fist jams through the crux you might be a gorilla. Pretty rough for 5.10.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 11, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Whoever called this 5.9 should be shot!
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