Blankety Blank 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Frost and Harry Daley, June 1959, FFA: Bob Kamps and Tom Higgins, 1963 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
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Chris Owen on pitch 3 taken from Fingertrip. (c) S...
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Description This three pitch face climb is more characteristic of Middle Cathedral Rock than it is of the rest of Tahquitz. It starts at an inobvious place, about 100 feet to the right of Switchbacks. Pitch 1 (5.9+) has several tricky sequences, ending at a two bolt belay. The crux of the climb is near the start of pitch 2, with steep friction and small edges. Pitch 3 (5.10B) has a difficult mantle and some thin face moves. Easy climbing from here leads to Lunch Ledge.
Protection standard rack and bolts
Chris Owen starts up Pitch 1. (c) Scott Nomi
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| Comments on Blankety Blank |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c
| Fabulous face climbing that's all the more amazing when you consider the year it was first done. This stands as a real testament to the skill and vision of Bob Kamps.
So named because it was "blanker" than The Blank, a climb freed a few years earlier by Frost and Kamps. |
By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
May 13, 2006
| the bolt at the top of pitch 2, which is rather vital to prevent a ride on life-flight should you fall, could definitely use replacement. |
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 20, 2008
| I agree that the second bolt on p2 should be replaced. The last gear was a micronut 10 feet below it. That manky bolt is the only thing between the crux and the anchors--or you and eternity, depending on how you look at it. P2 is definitely not safe for someone who could possibly fall here. |
By Ben H
Sep 20, 2009
| I remember doing this a couple years back. Couldn't remember the route beta, and led off to the left on the horizontal overlaps at p3. It takes gear and works out as an alternative. Thought it was a bit harder than the regular mantle move, but still very fun. |
By Souljah
Jan 26, 2010
| Superb Kamps route. Seeing the old 5.9+ rating (1st pitch) makes me all nostalgic. If I remember right , we used to clip a fixed pin in the P-1 overlap. |
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 14, 2010
| Second pitch bolt still not replaced as of 14 July 2010 |
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