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The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Tons 
Animatronic 
Asym 
Audition, The 
Beginner's Outing 
Black 'N Dicey 
Black Awareness 
Black Dihedral 
Blank Frank 
Bonnie 
Call From Overseas 
Clyde 
Corner Pockets 
Counter Balance 
Crack Happens 
Crack's On Top, The 
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest 
Dark Side Roofs 
Eagle has Landed, The 
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry 
Edge Of Fright 
El Guapo 
Enchanted Porkfist 
Face The Music 
Fat Like Butta 
Fight or Flight 
Fragile 
Go East, Old Man 
Hangers Regained 
I Scare Myself 
Kashmere 
Kinesthesia 
Levels of the Game 
Line of Strength 
Lumina 
Mannequin 
Missing Hangers 
Muted by Reality 
Plum, The 
Porkus Procurement 
Puddle Of Holes 
Punjabi 
Redlined 
Rip It 
Route Fluffer 
Shelf Road Virgin 
Stink Finger 
Stuck in the Middle With You 
Suspender Man 
Teenage Wristband 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls 
Trolling For Holds 
Two Hearts 
U Pump It 
Unknown 
Viaggro 
Void Lloyd 
Way We Were, The 
Welcoming, The 
Whisper To A Scream 

Blank Frank 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Dec 27, 2001
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

The Dark Side is the "technicians choice" of Shelf. Vertical to barely slabbing (don't judge these routes' steepness by how they look from the trail), these routes inspire the ballet dancer in all who attempt the climbs here!

Blank Frank is a great dance up one of the best faces in the Dark Side. A few moves up less then perfect rock soon gain the long, very sustained crux on small crimps and side-pulls to a great rest ledge below the final roof-bulge. A devious sequence on monos and underclings gets you over the roof and to the anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts + anchors.



Photos of Blank Frank Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Sinner making it look casual while giving us The Finger on Blank Frank. I've never used so many consecutive, sequential, natural, absolutely crucial, non-tweaky monos on any route.
Adam Sinner making it look casual while giving us ...
Comments on Blank Frank Add Comment
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By Jesse Ryan
Apr 29, 2002

Excellent route! Great battle through the pump and sequences all the way to the anchors. Rock quality is only a bit lower near bottom, and didn't detract from my experience. A must do, three stars IMHO.

By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2004

Best route I've done on the Dark Side. I thought the crux was the mono/undercling sequence near the top.