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This route begins on the far east side of Animal World Rock. Follow the trail around the rock to the far east side of the cliff. Locate two bolts on a steep short face.
Pitch One: Climb past the bolts with hard, tricky moves on devious holds. Gain a ledge and move past the third and fourth bolts to the belay ledge.
Pitch Two: Climb up a shallow corner past bolts tending to the left at the top of the corner. Place some gear and gain a ledge below a blank-looking, blunt arete. Crank up the arete on small, insecure holds (crux) climbing to the anchor.
Rap the route to the ground.
Four bolts on the first pitch and six bolts plus some small-to-medium gear on the second pitch.
|Comments on Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head
|By Chris Archer|
May 12, 2004
Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?
|By Mike Munger|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles.