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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Instinct 
Animal Magnetism 
Animal Riots Activist 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 
Automatic Choke 
Balance, The 
Beast Food Left 
Beast Food Right 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 
Blockhead 
Cannabis Sportiva 
Closer To God 
Cold Snap 
Crack Corner 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 
Evolution Revolution 
Familiar Strangers 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) 
Fifth World, The 
Free Willie 
Global Gorilla 
Gull Whackers 
Hands of Destiny 
Hope and Pray 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
Joint Venture 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
Lazy Day 
Lovely to See You 
Melancholy Man 
New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
Reversal Roof 
Ride My See-saw 
Split Personality 
Strange Times 
Sundog 
Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 15, 2002
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Description 

This route begins on the far east side of Animal World Rock. Follow the trail around the rock to the far east side of the cliff. Locate two bolts on a steep short face.

Pitch One: Climb past the bolts with hard, tricky moves on devious holds. Gain a ledge and move past the third and fourth bolts to the belay ledge.

Pitch Two: Climb up a shallow corner past bolts tending to the left at the top of the corner. Place some gear and gain a ledge below a blank-looking, blunt arete. Crank up the arete on small, insecure holds (crux) climbing to the anchor.

Rap the route to the ground.


Protection 

Four bolts on the first pitch and six bolts plus some small-to-medium gear on the second pitch.



Comments on Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
May 12, 2004

Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?

By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles.