Blades of Steel 5.11
| 516 page views
Good page?   |
Dan Schuerch cleaning draws after lowering. I'm n...
Add Photo  Printer View
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Not so well protected sport route. Bolts are good. Thin moves that will require a little thinking.
Location On E. side of Lost Dome. Right ~50' of "For A Rocker" and "Made in the Shade" slightly uphill.
Protection Quickdraws, 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can rap down w/ a single 50m rope.
| Comments on Blades of Steel |
|
By jcomp
From: OKC, OK
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| 3 bolts. According to Steve the route originally had 1 bolt. Must of been a hell of a stout route! It is hard and thin with 3 bolts. |
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.11
| Yeah, this route description says that the route is well protected with the three bolts, however, that might be true if you stick clip the first two bolts as the description writer did. The route may not be runout per se, but it has a certain spicey quality to it. |
By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected. |
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jul 31, 2007
| I changed the description since the consensus is that the bolts are not adequately spaced. |
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility. |
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 7, 2008
| It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain. |
By steven charles
Oct 31, 2008
| I dig this route. Fun slab moves, and gets the heart racing. |
By Tony Mayse
Jan 16, 2012
| The tree that was once behind the route is now gone due to the fire last year (2011). The route did have copper heads protecting the upper moves, bolts were placed to replace the old heads and installed at pretty much the same height as the heads as not to change the nature of the climbing. Not a sport route. |
|
RSS Feed
3 more...
