Bladerunner  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Season:  spring or fall Submitted By:  slim on Sep 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bladerunner and the variation going left (with qui...

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

It's kind of funny. I did this route maybe 10 years ago and remembered it as being a huge, awesome, overhanging arete. When we hiked up to it this weekend, I realized I was on drugs. It's about 30 feet tall....

Bladerunner takes a steep arete, with the left side being quite overhanging and the right side being less than vertical. The layout of the route, as well as the orientation of the holds kind of leads to mental confusion on whether to stay on the overhanging side (more strenuous but more straightforward) or to crawl over the arete onto the face (probably less strenuous, but probably awkward).

Location 

When you first get up to Ridge 2 there is a long, sizeable roof that is 20 feet off the ground. Just past this is an obvious, overhanging arete, probably about 20 feet tall, with bolts. It is towards the easternmost part of Ridge 2.

Protection 

7 closely spaced bolts. The anchor bolts and webbing were in pretty bad shape. It is pretty easy to top out and hike over the top (north) and down through the cave to get back to the start.