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The Asylum
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L to R R to L Alpha
Asylum, The 
BBQ for Buddha 
Blade 
Brain Surgery 101 
Cuckoo's Nest 
I had a Good Name, but I forgot 
Pile-o-mania 

Blade 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ward Smith 08/01
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 8, 2012
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Jeff below, Blade above

Description 

This thing comes at you from all angles. It is just as tricky as it is powerful! But over all a bouldery adventure, thought i had it pretty well figured out til i got on it, then i figured out that i was wrong, haha... Once i did work it out i was pleased with the interesting strong movements.

Climb the steep arete and face past the 1st bolt. Sink in to a kneebar rest then engage in the second half of the crux. past 2 more bolts and on to an easier finish.

The only thing i didnt like about this route is the last 10 feet, or maybe just the anchor placement. It looks like you are supposed to move left and go to the chains directly but the more obvious climbing goes straight up and you can gain the chains from there easily after topping out the cliff. I'd say just do it however you like and it is still very much 5.12c. enjoy the ride.


Location 

The right side of the Asylum crag. Look for the nice sharp arete.


Protection 

5 bolts to chains with fixed biners.



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Blade climbs the arete in the center of the photo
Blade climbs the arete in the center of the photo
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