|Buttress of Cracks - Right Side
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) Bob Gaines, September 1986, FL: Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs, December 1991|
|Page Views: ||1,236|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jan 28, 2006|
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Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1986.
Climb Warm Up for about 10' or so and then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it's a cruise to the top.
This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance...cooler temps don't hurt either. It's possible to climb the arete on either side, but I found it easier to move to the right side after the first bolt and then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.
3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"), a few pieces to 3" for the start
BETA PHOTO: Blade Runner (5.12a/b) follows the sharp arete.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Jan 12, 2007
As of my last visit (1/07), I could only locate two bolts on this route.
|By Bob Gaines|
Jan 23, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
The first bolt is on the right side of the arete. The second and third bolts are on the left side of the arete.