Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Land of the Rising Moon
Select Route:
Blade Runner 
Drainpipe Left Exit 
Master of Sport 
Moonrise Variation 
Straight and Narrow 

Blade Runner 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Piana, B. Devine, K. Bein, 1982
Page Views: 2,053
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 17, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Rob Kepley sending Blade Runner with "pumphouse".


If facing STRAIGHT & NARROW, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.

This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the 'Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantle follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor. Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.


Mostly nuts (all sizes) and smallish cams. A couple of hand-sized pieces.


Per Jeff G.: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

Photos of Blade Runner Slideshow Add Photo
On the blade.
On the blade.
Comments on Blade Runner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

edited to add: I didn't place the bolts. I don't know who did, I'm just reporting the facts.

By Justin Edl
Nov 10, 2007

I agree John. If I remember correctly, there was a good gear anchor and an casual walkoff which deposits you nearly at the base of the climb. As a result, I think the bolts on this are not necessary.