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Mother Ps ycho's Little Darlins 
Banana Cake (Buttress) 
Blade Runner 
David and Goliath 
Fathers Dazed 
Grass is Greener..., The 
Green Banana Jam 
Green Eggs And Cams 
Here and Gone 
Josh and Dave's Route 
Jump for Joyce 
Krack a Tack 
Little Jack Corner 
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Missing the Action 
Monkey Business 
My Left Foot 
No Stars 
Pettycoat Junction 
Rock Candy 
Samson and Dalieback 
Time Warp 
Toy Roof 
Wits End 
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Wrist Rocket 
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Blade Runner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
FA: Ben Burnham, Vincent Greene 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Jul 31, 2005
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Cool route, as seen from above.


This is a fun route up a sharp arete to overhanging face on the second buttress east of the road. This route starts at a huge ledge one step below the anchors for Fathers Dazed/Wits End. Follow the instructions to reach either of those routes, and then climb one to reach the belay for this route, or turn west around Missing in Action to reach the top and rap down. Start by scrambling up a short rock formation so you can lean across and clip the first bolt. Step across with a good flake for hands and traverse to the arete and around. Climb the arete (5.6-) clipping two more bolts until under a roof. Step around to the right onto the overhanging face, clip the final bolt and go straight up the crux to a good ridge. Sequence is everything! Hand traverse right to the chains. Watch for loose rock -- The belayer should wear a helmet for this one.


Two 3/8" Cold shuts at belay ledge (base). Four 3/8" Rawl bolts, 3/8" cold shuts with Chains at top.

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By Sargeant Pepper
From: tucson, az
Dec 6, 2010

Get ready for some exposure...pumpy jug haul. Rock to the right of the route has lots of big loose stuff so if you're on TR and come off, or if you're on your way down and clipping back into directionals, those at the bottom of the route in the gully be forewarned.