This is a fun route up a sharp arete to overhanging face on the second buttress east of the road. This route starts at a huge ledge one step below the anchors for Fathers Dazed/Wits End. Follow the instructions to reach either of those routes, and then climb one to reach the belay for this route, or turn west around Missing in Action to reach the top and rap down. Start by scrambling up a short rock formation so you can lean across and clip the first bolt. Step across with a good flake for hands and traverse to the arete and around. Climb the arete (5.6-) clipping two more bolts until under a roof. Step around to the right onto the overhanging face, clip the final bolt and go straight up the crux to a good ridge. Sequence is everything! Hand traverse right to the chains. Watch for loose rock -- The belayer should wear a helmet for this one.
Two 3/8" Cold shuts at belay ledge (base). Four 3/8" Rawl bolts, 3/8" cold shuts with Chains at top.
|By Sargeant Pepper|
From: tucson, az
Dec 6, 2010
Get ready for some exposure...pumpy jug haul. Rock to the right of the route has lots of big loose stuff so if you're on TR and come off, or if you're on your way down and clipping back into directionals, those at the bottom of the route in the gully be forewarned.