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Wandering Lunatic S 

Blacksmith 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin - 1992
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on May 18, 2010

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Unknown climber on Blacksmith

Description 

General: Blacksmith offers a fairly sustained section of gear protected face climbing on great rock with great movements. If you're comfortable at this grade of face climbing, don't miss this route!

Pitch 1 (5.10a): Take the line of weakness up the face passing the small tree ~6' up and head up between the hanging cedar on your right and the small vegetation on your left. Climb past many horizontals (protection), past an overlap, until the first bolt appears. Climb to a stance and a small placement and then lock in to find the line and make committing moves (crux) to gain the first bolt. Continue up following the weakness in the face to a piton, a second bolt and a second piton to a welcomed stance below the left side of the roof. From here either find the right-most of two left-to-right finger cracks and make an unexpected hard move to gain the finger crack and follow easier rock to the top. Alternatively, head straight up from the stance (bearing slightly left) to the roof and traverse to the bolt and then past it pulling the roof on the edges formed by a right-rising thin seam/crack (5.10c). Head up on easier rock albeit somewhat spare on protection.


Location 

Start: In the Pegasus Area of the Lower Beer Walls. Start as for Lichenbrau below a small tree growing out of the rock 6' above the ground.

Descent: Either walk off back down to the Lower Beer Walls via the north trail, or rappel on a 70m rope (a 60m rope will not get you to the ground).


Protection 

Two bolts, two pitons, single rack to 3" w/ doubles in small TCU sizes to fingers. The pitons can both be backed up with micro cams if so desired. There are a few trees at the top to build an anchor on, as well as a fixed tree anchor.



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By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jan 8, 2011

cruxy then sustained, super good

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Oct 31, 2011

amazing, the crux (first bolt) may seem a little contrived but after and before that this climb is just simply stunning. best piece of advice is to pick out you're line before you head up and place gear accordingly. It is all too easy to get a heinous amount of rope drag off the wandering start. I would suggest a double rack up to #1 and 1 # 2 and 3. medium to small size stoppers help on this to back up pins. Its a very gratifying lead for sureeeeee

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 6, 2013

Great route fully sustained for the whole pitch.you can lower with a 70m. 60 doesnt quite get u down. Crux is getting to the first bolt and its also the biggest spacing between gear. I had two bombwr cams in prior to bolt. Bring smaller gear yellow to blue aliens