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Blackman's Burden 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2000
Page Views: 5,611
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Mar 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (156)
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Onsight on Blackman's Burden. The picture was take...

Description 

Another of the great 5.10s at Cactus. Start two routes left of a huge corner (Cellulite District), following a small, right-facing corner for a few feet to a ledge. Back left to a big flake and an easy runout to a stance under a crimpy wall. Pick your way to the top past many bolts on excellent sharp rock.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchor.



Photos of Blackman's Burden Slideshow Add Photo
Dan the Mountain Man working toward the 2nd bolt.
Dan the Mountain Man working toward the 2nd bolt.
Cactus Cliff - Left (1) <br /> <br />Man-tasia is now named Pick Pocket.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1)

Man-tasia is now named Pi...
First clip.
First clip.
Upper part.
Upper part.
At the third clip and ready for the super fun roof.
At the third clip and ready for the super fun roof...
75 feet of fun.
75 feet of fun.
Tony Herr, working past the first bolt, Blackmans' Burden.
Tony Herr, working past the first bolt, Blackmans'...

Comments on Blackman's Burden Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 21, 2013
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 9, 2002

I had been passing this up for a while because of the rather bland way it looked from the ground but I just got off it today and it's all it's claimed to be! A MUST do!!Cruxy from the get-go but don't worry about the sharp factor,it's not bad at all, call it "enhanced friction" on the continous series of fantastic crimps and glory pockets! One of the best 10s at Shelf!!
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Dec 23, 2003

Great route! After the fun flakes on the lower part and a few more pumpy moves there is a great ledge you can cheat over to and rest for the upper part. Given the amount of chalk there I would guess this is done often. I know I took advantage of it. Its also easy to get back onto the line from the ledge.
By Larry Shaw
Sep 4, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The bottom section goes further right than one might think...excellent route with an exciting finish. I remember the feet being really good on this one.
By Matt Ford
Oct 2, 2006

"I remember the feet being really good on this one."

Not anymore. I broke what seems to be a key foothold right below the slight bulge about half way up. Could've finished it with the foot, but without, I had to bail. My opinion is a grade or 2 harder now, maybe 11a.
By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2006

I'm not sure about the location of broken foothold, but I just did this route last weekend, and it is still .10b/c, and yes it is still one of the best 10s at Cactus.
By kjdetlor
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 18, 2007

I hopped on this route at the end of my day and had an absolute BLAST on it. It has basically all types of climbing, steep in parts, slabby in sections, and really balancy, and heck if you skip the last bolt and head to the right, there is even some kinda fun crack climbing too. A must do when at Cactus.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 29, 2008

This route is a must do if you don't have to wait in line to climb it. I agree this was a 5.10b maybe 5.10b/c. All the holds are there but near the top where the rock gets black and sharp you may need to figure out your grip.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

Good crimps, cool pockets, great jugs and a little traversing at the bottom. Even a bit pumpy. For those of you homesick from the New River Gorge (like me) this climb has a few holds that might remind you of home.
By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

10c if you take the baby-roof direct. There's a nice ledge to deadpoint left to from a R-hand undercling. Then pull up like a thug. If you bail left at the roof onto the chunky stuff it's 10b IMHO and a less interesting climb (the chunky stuff blows the aesthetic on the lower section a little bit).
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb! I don't think there's a move harder than .10b, but this route is very sustained and quite pumpy.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's all about the right hand. My right arm seemed to get pretty pumped on this.
By Dan B.
From: Denver, CO
Nov 20, 2011

As of 11/19/11, THE BOLT HANGERS ON THIS ROUTE ARE WORN ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH (there are no quick-links, rings or chains). Who knows when I'll be back, but if anyone wishes to take the initiative of replacing the hangers (with quick-clips would be ideal), the Shelf community would be forever grateful. The route is travelled so frequently, it should really have better hardware. Thanks!
By John Dubya
Dec 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Hangers still worn down as of 12/06/12. Do not top rope off them and bring an ATC to lower yourself off; otherwise safe and quite fun.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 21, 2013

ANCHORS ARE FIXED.
Updated the anchor again on 1/18/13 with s/s ASCA bolt and quicklinks. Added a short chain to right bolt to equalize. Anchor should be good to go for a while now.