Blackjack 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Louie Anderson, Doniel Drazin |
| Submitted By: | Dr. Evil on Jul 2, 2006 |
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Leading the start of the second pitch of Blackjack...
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Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Pitch 1: Start up the black-streaked, overhanging face. There is an anchor just after the end of the overhanging section that can be used to descend if you are only climbing the first pitch. Otherwise, continue to the higher anchor in the corner.
Pitch 2: Move right from the anchor and climb up beautiful edges.
Pitch 3: Continue with easy moves on somewhat crumbly rock to the top of the cliff.
Descend from the top by three rappels with a 60-meter rope.
Location This is the leftmost route on the Easy Street/Far Side section of the wall. The start is 75 yards past the Kamikaze Cave.
Protection Quickdraws.
Pulling the initial moves of "Blackjack."
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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d
| I think the description got flipped, it's more like 3 pitches 200 feet, not 2 pitches 300 feet.
Apparently something broke off somewhere around the 3rd to 4th bolt on P1. The jugs vanish and you have a couple moves through some crimpers, a pinch and eventually an undercling. It's a good route, but not 10b, IMHO.
Alternately, you can just move right onto some less interesting climbing on choss & jugs. It'd probably go at around 10b. |
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| The second pitch is 5.10c according to Andersons guide. Supposedly something has broken off the first pitch, and I found it harder than the second.
You can link pitches 1&2 for a stellar 100 ft climb. We did this and our 60 meter rope barely made it when lowering. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Dec 15, 2009
| Yeah, about June of 2006 a very large portion the the climb right of the 3rd & 4th bolts came off. I remember climbing P1 to a jug formed by a very large black flake that no longer exists. Now you just see a large brown "boiler-plate" like depression that you can undercling the top of to get to the 5th bolt. I wouldn't have wanted to be the belayer that day!! A lot of folks take for granted that the climbs are as clean and solid as they are, but these routes were once very loose and the cliff is constantly in transition and shedding flakes and holds. I agree the rating now feels more like 5.10c/d. |
By Joe Dondero
From: Isla Vista, CA
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| Just wanted to confirm that you can indeed rap from the 2nd anchor to the bottom with a 60m rope, just barely. |
By H. Lord
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.10d
| First pitch is definitely harder than .10b, I've climbed it with people that can do high 11's and watched them struggle.
That said, if you can make it through the awful first pitch, the rest of the climb is definitely worth doing all the way up to 200 feet.
The second pitch is far and away the best part of the route, with solid 10b climbing and a small cave for a belay station that provides much-welcomed shade on a sunny day. Third pitch is an easy but worthwhile climb to the top where you can stand on the top and soak in the exposure.
We linked the rapel from the third and second pitch with a 70 meter rope, but make sure you have your center marked because you can't see the ends. It's probably a better idea to link the lower two rappels, but the anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch just isn't as comfortable as the others. |
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