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BETA PHOTO: blackened
A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock.
Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face.
This climb is located in an area just North of the Phoenix Wall. Approach by hiking to Phoenix and traverse back right along the base of the cliff passing 100% Beef, a 5.13 project and Condor (all in the Watt's guide). Blackened is the first bolt line right of the parallel cracks of Condor, it climbs a steep white face with closely spaced bolts.
light through the crack on Blackened
Jun 21, 2006
This climb can only be 11d if you do the contrived version of staying directly on the bolt line without taking advantage of the obvious stems and rests out right. There is no way it's 11d if you follow the path of least resistance to the chains. All the same, sweet climb.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 24, 2006
Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 9, 2007
One of the best of the newer climbs at smith.
From: Portland, OR
May 25, 2009
Fun route! A bit sharp. There is another fun route of similar grade, but much different style, to the left of 100% Beef.
|By Toby B|
Sep 12, 2011
If you stay to the right, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d described here... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes.
From: Reno, NV
Oct 30, 2011
Really fun line, took some figuring for me to work out the beta. Very sharp. If you are on a road trip save it for the last day.