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Blackbeard's Tears T 
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Blackbeard's Tears 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A2 [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay
Page Views: 2,196
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007

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Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...

Description 

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting the wave and up to poison oak finish. Equalize bushes for anchor or bolt a new 2nd anchor. Often dripping with foggy love.


Protection 

Standard rack/thin aid gear



Photos of Blackbeard's Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. She bagged it after about 30ft.
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...
After the 1st afternoon, I rapped off a chockstone. Later I came back and solo-aided the rest of the route.
After the 1st afternoon, I rapped off a chockstone...
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Just under the roof on the first day, with Footsteps in the background.
Just under the roof on the first day, with Footste...
Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri had left off.
Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri h...
Comments on Blackbeard's Tears Add Comment
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By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 6, 2012

Someone added bolts at the end of the section below the wave, and although it looked to be 5.10+/.11- up to that point, I'd be curious as to who bolted it, did they free it up to that point, did they try the roof, and what was their given rating?