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Blackbeard's Tears T 
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Mermaid, The S 
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Blackbeard's Tears 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A2 [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay
Page Views: 2,735
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Just under the roof with Footsteps in the backgrou...

Description 

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route has seen recent attempts to free it, and may be one of the harder traditional routes in California when freed. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.

P2: 5.13 (??), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), SS anchors that appear to be in decent condition.

P3: 5.14- (??), 120' (from the ground), no anchors on top (yet). Apparently a visiting hardman felt that the final bulge crux clocked in at V10/V11.

Get some!!!

Protection 

Standard rack/thin aid gear


Photos of Blackbeard's Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ludwig cleaning the route.
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan Wisheropp soloing up the crack.
Evan Wisheropp soloing up the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...
Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri h...
Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...

Comments on Blackbeard's Tears Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA
Feb 23, 2015

New titanium glue-in anchors at the top of the 5.10+/5.11- section.
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Sep 28, 2015

Nic Sabo one hung the second pitch, and thinks it goes at around 13c. This thing is getting freed reeeeal soon!
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 4, 2015

Incredible what the human body can accomplish... Love to see some footage/fotografs of your efforts...
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 5, 2015

There are some excellent ones in California Climber alongside your commentary. If you didn't get your copy yet, I'll send you one (PM me your address). I would post photos if I had any of my own without others' copyright.

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