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Blackbeard's Tears 

YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: FA Matthias Holladay, FFA Ethan Pringle
Page Views: 3,221
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007

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Evan Wisheropp soloing up the crack.

Description 

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route has seen recent attempts to free it, and may be one of the harder traditional routes in California when freed. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.

P2: 5.13 (??), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), SS anchors that appear to be in decent condition.

P3: 5.14- (??), 120' (from the ground), no anchors on top (yet). Apparently a visiting hardman felt that the final bulge crux clocked in at V10/V11.

Get some!!!

Protection 

Standard rack/thin aid gear


Photos of Blackbeard's Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Pringle entering the lower crux section (Pho...
Ethan Pringle entering the lower crux section (Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ludwig cleaning the route.
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just under the roof with Footsteps in the backgrou...
Just under the roof with Footsteps in the backgrou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri h...
Ludwig starting to clean, picking up where Lauri h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...
Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...

Comments on Blackbeard's Tears Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Feb 23, 2015

New titanium glue-in anchors at the top of the 5.10+/5.11- section.
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Sep 28, 2015

Nic Sabo one hung the second pitch, and thinks it goes at around 13c. This thing is getting freed reeeeal soon!
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 4, 2015

Incredible what the human body can accomplish... Love to see some footage/fotografs of your efforts...
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 5, 2015

There are some excellent ones in California Climber alongside your commentary. If you didn't get your copy yet, I'll send you one (PM me your address). I would post photos if I had any of my own without others' copyright.
By Sic Nabo
21 hours ago

Ethan Pringle made the first free ascent of this beast, all the way to the top. He proposed a grade of 14c. Although he used hand-jammies for the crux, so it's really like the 5th aid ascent or something....
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Pringle 'scending the V11 boulder proble...
Ethan Pringle 'scending the V11 boulder problem getting onto the headwall (Photo: Jim Thornburg)
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
18 hours ago

Finally! So the FFA of Blackbeard's Tears! Wow.
Brilliant Work, Ethan!

Blackbeard’s Tears, ahh... its fissure, its white-noise cacophony of wind, and wave-shore action...

This is that rare kind of cliff that has the ability to intrinsically "gift us" an awesome flow experience...

Perhaps you know this; it's the sharing of the rope, and the willing desire to seek out the uncertainty of new routes; it's that fabulous feeling of fun, totally being there in the moment; it's loving that immediacy of reality on the rock as we happily interpret it; and it's those pleasurable fun-times we have here that many of us use as a standard by which we rank similar experiences.

Listen!...a steep gymnastic path of vertigo-fantastic positioning is there waiting for you! and likely in its solitude...

Years ago, Blackbeard's Tears gave its unique vertical journey to me with no distractions in its environs, and this allowed me to savor the climb, the movement over land, feeling real nice kinesthetic sensations as I went upward. With almost-automatic responses, I answered its challenging demands with desire, and am now similarly contented again, chuckling it's finally been freed!

Berg Heil,
M.

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