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Blackbeard's Tears, has it been freed?

Original Post
Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

Has anyone come close to freeing Blackbeard's Tears? mountainproject.com/v/black…

Does anyone have any idea where it would go free around? 13+?

I'm thinking about committing to a week or so of working on it toward the end of summer.

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Bless You Ben! I have been waiting years for someone to try this, one of the best prizes on the west coast. Although I have never climbed harder than 11c-d, and can't really speak of the 12-13 realm, the "breaking wave" portion will likely give you big pleasure. Wish I was in the 'hood, as I'd love to watch your heroic efforts and hopeful success. Please keep us all posted, thanks.

Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

thanks for your support! it looks so incredible...i really like overhung finger cracks, the fun is always worth the pain and its always very gratifying to send them. hopefully i can at least come close to dialing in on a sequence for that crux. it looks brutal

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Yeah it does look very difficult, and no problem Ben, just don't try changing the name if you free it . . .

And isn't it hard to believe no one has posted a response yet to even say they had done it on aid . . . ?

Do you know of anyone who has done it on aid to the top? I don't. Of course I left the Humboldt Bay Area years ago . . .

This leads me to think it has not even had a complete second ascent.

What are you West Coasters doing out there? With the superb cliffs on Trinidad Head, as well as all the other gems in the area, perhaps you are busy . . .

It's really not that hard of an aid climb, as it does take a lot of pro. Someone must have worked on at least the lower part, as they are the likely ones who put in the two-bolt anchor, near where I had girth-hitched a chockstone.

Rick S. wrote he thought it was Eric C. who bolted Redwood Burl and that's fine, but did E.C. also bolt the aforementioned anchor and make progress on BB's Tears? And while we're at it, how often does the Great White get done?

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

That whole wall looks amazing...

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

It IS amazing isn't it? Very special place.

So, basically two weeks and no reply. I suppose the folks who put the anchor in don't read M.P.

As for Redwood Burl and The Great White, I am still curious...

Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

went and scouted the line yesterday. im stoked. the aforementioned hostel is boarded up and overgrown, who knows when that closed down. i'll be in the area (Arcata) from August to December, and i'll be heading up to work this route every chance i get (perhaps once a week even). if anyone would like to join me, id be very grateful for the company and the committed belayer. message me and we can exchange phone numbers

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Ben! Morgan! North Coasters! Blackbeard's Tears. . . Has its FFA been realized?

On the FA...

Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

figured i'd post an update.

finally made it back up here to the redwood coast and jumped on blackbeard's tears yesterday with a friendly fellow MPer.

the first 5.11 section alone gave us quite a headache, with footholds breaking, sand/dirt covering everything, just a general look of neglect. the first section is cleaned up and the sequence is dialed, so our next trip is going to be focused on replacing the hideous looking bolts and dusting off the upper sections.

from the looks of it, this is gonna be an epic undertaking, but im very psyched.

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Way to go guys and I appreciate your efforts at these splendid locales. Nothing like climbing on the North Coast!
If I recall correctly, once past the "breaking wave portion," it was easy thin nailing, so bolts would definitely be needed there...or, wherever.
So, how's it going?

Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

UPDATE, and also an INVITE:

We've only made one trip to promontory recently, me and another HSU student, Nic Sabo. Blackbeard up to the first bolts is still dusty, so we brushed it off a bit and replaced the webbing on the rusty bolts. The rust had grown around the old webbing, and it took a bit of force to rip them. I can post pictures if anyone is curious how sketchy leaver gear can get on the Northwest Coast.

We're currently organizing a weekend trip in the near future to spend some time re-bolting, possible bolting new routes, and also clearing up some trails and paths. If anyone would like to participate in the effort, please let me know. Either on here or by emailing me at bkf59@humboldt.edu

Also, any objections, questions, or concerns over these proposed new routes, PLEASE CONTACT ME. We simply want to contribute to the area, and certainly not degrade it.

Side Note:
On this last trip, Nic one hung Great White, falling on the last move on his second attempt. I seconded and hung the living shit out of it...extremely challenging. Rounded 'sandcastle' 'pinches' that fall apart in your hands, and their use is mandatory..."Part of the game", as Nic said.
If you can climb .12 pretty well, I highly recommend adding Great White to your tick list...truly unique/awesome.

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Nic and Ben!

Yeah, for sure, you guys bolt/replace whatever you have the efforts for… But note Rick’s comment about bolts on Centipede Arête which break the rock before they'll pull.

Pictures are always appreciated, especially of sketchy leaver gear. 



Well, wish I was in the vicinity for a weekend trip bolting new routes—there’s lots of lovely vertical terrain to choose from for those willing to put them up...

Where are these proposed new routes, by the way?

From “The Jug Hauls” at South Footsteps we eyed a traversing line up and left which might initially involve some bat-hooking, but then the size of the holds increase, as I recall, and once there the West Face of South Footsteps is waiting—talk about a premier sea cliff!

Glad you guys liked Great White.

Keep us all in the loop!

Benjamin F · · Crescent City, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,000

Will do. We're going to be extremely selective about what we replace, and will patch as best we can anything we take out.

We've been entertaining the idea of using titanium glue ins, similar to what they've been using in thailand:
upskillclimbing.com/2011/03…
(just something we're looking into. we'd have to do it a little differently due to the different kind of rock, but we've been in contact with people who bolt with titanium, and exploring every option for bolting the best we can in the unique climate.)

Still in the planning stages, also waiting on better weather.

As far as new routes, we're considered various routes we've climbed on top rope, using the anchor for Great White. The difficulties and aesthetics vary, and we will intensely scrutinize every single bolt we propose placing. Past Centipede and west of the corridor, there is a lot of potential, as well. When I climbed with Matt (another MPer) a while back, we both noted how many possibilities you'd have to wrestle with if someone were choosing what to bolt and what not to bolt.

I'll probably take some pictures and draw X's and post on here for suggestions/comments just to be certain we're bolting quality routes, as soon as we've gone again and scouted them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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