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Gnar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls to the Wall 
Crest Chewel 
Look Ma No Cavities 
Tooth Fairy 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007
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Alex starts the steep exit
Black Balled (5.10)


Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs, leading to a dilemma near the last bolt at the steepest section: do you want to go just left of the last bolt or go try going just right? Both work- probably about the same rating?


4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.

By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.