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Gnar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls to the Wall S 
Blackballed S 
Crest Chewel S 
Helical Tusk S 
Look Ma No Cavities S 
Tooth Fairy S 


YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 1,392
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Alex starts the steep exit Black Balled (5.10)


Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs. I'm not sure if it's better to go left or right at the crux at the last bolt.


4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos of Blackballed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Techy climb
Techy climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Mrs. B 'getting some' on the crux move.
Mrs. B 'getting some' on the crux move.

Comments on Blackballed Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.
By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.
By Finn Foster
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Pretty fun route, but not a 10c. I thought it was easier than Balls to the Wall. The crux move is a little tougher, but overall it is an easier route. The fourth bolt definitely has a tough crux right before the bolt.

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