Login with Facebook
Gnar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls to the Wall S 
Blackballed S 
Crest Chewel S 
Look Ma No Cavities S 
Tooth Fairy S 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 1,202
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Alex starts the steep exit
Black Balled (5.10)


Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs, leading to a dilemma near the last bolt at the steepest section: do you want to go just left of the last bolt or go try going just right? Both work- probably about the same rating?


4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos of Blackballed Slideshow Add Photo
Techy climb
Techy climb

Comments on Blackballed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.
By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.
By Jimmy Buchanan
Jun 12, 2014

Really sick route. Goes well on good jugs until the slight overhang, where a left hand undercling helps you to grab a great sloper above the overhang. REALLY fun. Consider top roping it, figuring out the crux, and then leading it. Might make it more enjoyable