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 ADVANCED
Gnar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls to the Wall S 
Blackballed S 
Crest Chewel S 
Look Ma No Cavities S 
Tooth Fairy S 

Blackballed 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 1,213
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Alex starts the steep exit Black Balled (5.10)

Description 

Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs. I'm not sure if it's better to go left or right at the crux at the last bolt.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor


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Techy climb

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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.
By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.
By Jimmy Buchanan
Jun 12, 2014

Really sick route. Goes well on good jugs until the slight overhang, where a left hand undercling helps you to grab a great sloper above the overhang. REALLY fun. Consider top roping it, figuring out the crux, and then leading it. Might make it more enjoyable