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The name of a route may be an encapsulation of the type of climbing encountered or emotions evoked during an ascent. While pulling into the wide crack / chimney at the roof and securing myself with a knee bar, thoughts of being devoured by a unseen entity crept into my mind. Because the crack is quite wide this route may be easier to climb in hiking boots with vibram soles.
Begin in a dihedral just around the corner from a bolted face to crack climb (Twilight Zone) on the Dead End Ledge and continue straight up through the overhanging roof that is left of Easter Overhang. Rappel from the ROTC / Stevens Pass Motel anchors back to the Dead End Ledge in two rappels.
Cams to 5" or Big Bros to supplement the ancient 1/4" bolts with aluminum hangers or steel rings. Cams / medium stoppers are also necessary for an anchor.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 20, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FA- Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstadt, 1962. They used 6"-10" wood blocks in the OW. The 1/4" bolts are theirs, but someone added bolts also. not sure if fixed pin is theirs.