Black Widow Slab 

Does anyone know what the sport route is that is just right of Dracula? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere? I believe it's a Steve Damboise route? Bolted a couple years ago?

While you're at it, what about the one to the left of Dracula?

I believe the route left (the arete?) is Mordred, .14a, FA: Gomez aka Luke Parady, Winter '09.

Dang. I was hoping to notch my belt with a hard FA. Oh well. Thanks for the info, Chris!

We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with its multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks, everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.

The route list on this page, above, stirs up the murk already surrounding the locations of Kor's three routes on this rock. I don't know where he climbed, but I think that logic supports that "Center" is to the left of "Right Side." And I think that what this list calls "Center" is really "Right Side."

I have climbed (9/23/74) what I believe is "Right Side," all the way to the top. It is an obvious line (5.8 or 5.9) and is what D'Antonio calls "Wired." It begins in the dihedral shared with "Bands of Gold," which contrives to climb the left wall of the dihedral. And it seems to fit with Ament's and Erickson's vague descriptions of "Right Side."

What D'Antonio calls "Right Side" is what Rolofson calls "Wired." This pitch is an unlikely choice for "Right Side." It is relatively inobvious, is hard-to-protect 5.10, and ends at anchors shared with "Smoke Down" (although, yes, you could keep going up).

I have climbed "Bong Session," which ends at bolted anchors at the top of a clean crack. While it may be possible to continue free to the top, there is a less-obvious line above the anchors. I'm not suggesting that Kor would only follow obvious lines. Given my above arguments, however, I'm curious about why Chris Archer thinks "Bong Session" is Kor's "Right Side." Even though bongs (thick pitons) could be useful, I don't think those had been invented by 1961 (just kidding). (See thread on Bong Session.)

Anyway, the use of the name "Center" in the list on this page acknowledges that the first route right of "Bands of Gold" could be one of Kor's three routes.

Today, I toproped the mossy line between Kate Moss and Consilience, using the KM anchors. (One could continue the line upwards on lead, rather than move left to the KM anchors.) It felt like 5.10, although a taller person may find it easier -- or resort to aid in places -- or do some cleaning. I saw only rare opportunities for pro, although you may be able to find placements if you excavate a little of the moss. I did come across an old, rusty ring piton (which seemed solid) at about 80 or 90 feet.

Judicious cleaning has made Kor's Center Route, which climbs past the dead tree between Consilience and Gyromancy, and which sports three rusty fixed pins, enjoyable and protectable.