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Black Widow Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

Black Widow Slab  


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Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 39.9966, -105.4147 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,373
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 26, 2003
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Description 

Black Widow Slab is the large rock located just right (west) of Vampire Rock, 8.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. A number of good sport climbs can be found on the clean north face and several ice climbs form on the northeast face during good (wet) winter months. This is a good spot to escape the summer heat and enjoy some quality climbing in a beautiful setting.

L->R:

A. Left Side?
B. Kate Moss, 10, 1p, 125', bolts.
C. Consilience, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
D. Center, 10-, 3p, gear.
E. Gyromancy, 11- PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts.
F. Unknown ?Kor Route, 10+, 70'?, 1p?, TR (or gear & pin).
G1. Mordred, 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
G2. Dracula, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Unknown, 1p, bolts.
I. Black Widow Recess, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.
J1. The Spectre, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
J2. SMERSH, 11, 1p, gear.
K. Resonator, 12+/13-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Right Side? aka Bong Session, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
M. Pipe Dreams, 12, 2p, 100', bolts.
N. F*** You!, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
O1. Bands of Gold, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
O2. Right Side, 9-, 3p, gear.
P. Wired, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.
Q. Smoke Down, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
R. The Fire Down Below, 10+, 1p, gear.
S. The Far Right, 8+, gear.
T? Caught In The Web, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There 

Drive 8.7 miles up Boulder Canyon and park in a large pullout on the left across the road from the Boulderado. Head down stream for a couple hundred yards and ford the creek. Hike up a gully and reach a good trail that goes along the base of the rock.

Tyrol 

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Widow Slab:
Kate Moss   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
Right Side? aka Bong Session   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Specter   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gyromancy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Smoke Down   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Consilience   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
F**k You   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Pipe Dreams   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Dracula   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Resonator   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Mordred   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Black Widow Slab

Featured Route For Black Widow Slab
Mordred.

Mordred 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a  CO : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab
Follow the first 6 bolts or so of Dracula, then stay left and follow the next 7 bolts up the overhanging arete. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Black Widow Slab
Photos of Black Widow Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Black Widow from the top of Vampire Rock.
Black Widow from the top of Vampire Rock.
Consilience.
BETA PHOTO: Consilience.
Black Widow Slab.
Black Widow Slab.

Comments on Black Widow Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2008
Does anyone know what the sport route is that is just right of Dracula? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere? I believe it's a Steve Damboise route? Bolted a couple years ago?
By Kaelen Willaims
Sep 26, 2008
While you're at it, what about the one to the left of Dracula?
By chris schulte
Sep 11, 2010
I believe the route left (the arete?) is Mordred, .14a, FA: Gomez aka Luke Parady, Winter '09.
By K-dub
Sep 22, 2010
Dang. I was hoping to notch my belt with a hard FA. Oh well. Thanks for the info, Chris!
By Rich Farnham
Jun 10, 2011
We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with its multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks, everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.
By George Bracksieck
Apr 4, 2012
The route list on this page, above, stirs up the murk already surrounding the locations of Kor's three routes on this rock. I don't know where he climbed, but I think that logic supports that "Center" is to the left of "Right Side." And I think that what this list calls "Center" is really "Right Side."

I have climbed (9/23/74) what I believe is "Right Side," all the way to the top. It is an obvious line (5.8 or 5.9) and is what D'Antonio calls "Wired." It begins in the dihedral shared with "Bands of Gold," which contrives to climb the left wall of the dihedral. And it seems to fit with Ament's and Erickson's vague descriptions of "Right Side."

What D'Antonio calls "Right Side" is what Rolofson calls "Wired." This pitch is an unlikely choice for "Right Side." It is relatively inobvious, is hard-to-protect 5.10, and ends at anchors shared with "Smoke Down" (although, yes, you could keep going up).

I have climbed "Bong Session," which ends at bolted anchors at the top of a clean crack. While it may be possible to continue free to the top, there is a less-obvious line above the anchors. I'm not suggesting that Kor would only follow obvious lines. Given my above arguments, however, I'm curious about why Chris Archer thinks "Bong Session" is Kor's "Right Side." Even though bongs (thick pitons) could be useful, I don't think those had been invented by 1961 (just kidding). (See thread on Bong Session.)

Anyway, the use of the name "Center" in the list on this page acknowledges that the first route right of "Bands of Gold" could be one of Kor's three routes.
By George Bracksieck
Aug 27, 2012
Today, I toproped the mossy line between Kate Moss and Consilience, using the KM anchors. (One could continue the line upwards on lead, rather than move left to the KM anchors.) It felt like 5.10, although a taller person may find it easier -- or resort to aid in places -- or do some cleaning. I saw only rare opportunities for pro, although you may be able to find placements if you excavate a little of the moss. I did come across an old, rusty ring piton (which seemed solid) at about 80 or 90 feet.

Judicious cleaning has made Kor's Center Route, which climbs past the dead tree between Consilience and Gyromancy, and which sports three rusty fixed pins, enjoyable and protectable.
By George Bracksieck
Nov 2, 2013
According to High Over Boulder, "Left Side" (FA: Kor and Bleser, 1961) may follow the line in D'Antonio's guide, left of Kate Moss. It looks pretty scruffy, but there is a potential route.