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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Black Water 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JSt, DCnk
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: Jimbo on Feb 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Black Water

Description 

A Mt. Lemmon trad climbing gem.
Bomber gear, and an awkward crux

Location 

On Up the Creek Crag
A new formation 150 yards up stream from from the Control Tower.
Obvious line up a black streak through a small roof on the right side of the formation.

Protection 

Rack of cams to 3 inches and some small tcu's, stoppers.
Chains


Photos of Black Water Slideshow Add Photo
Greg at the crux. Beta please.
Greg at the crux. Beta please.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 14, 2008

Cool route with great pro. An interesting crux and a great finish. It can be wet if it has just rained. The route is on the right side of the formation and climbs just left of the big roof.
By Chris Prewitt
Dec 26, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

For a great alternate start I suggest climbing the short, splitter finger crack just right of the initial corner. It makes for some awesome locks right off the bat, and since you get a good rest after the grade doesn't change. The rest of the climb is very engaging. One of the better gear routes I've done on this mountain.
By Boodge Nomchompski
Jan 10, 2009

I had a hell of a time with the crux on this route...never did figure it out. Would one of you guys send me your beta please? I found it pretty stout for a 10, but I'm sure I just screwed it up.
By Jimbo
Jan 11, 2009

Where'd you think the crux was??
By Boodge Nomchompski
Jan 12, 2009

At the top, getting up past the little overhang.