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The Black Wall
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Black Wall 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,218
Submitted By: NEGuiding on Apr 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Wall; Mt. Tammany, Delaware Water ...

Description 

Many variations for this route exist rating up to 5.10d.

Pitch 1: Climb up and very slightly left to a bulge. Pull over this and follow the corner at the left edge of the left-facing wall t oa belay ledge.
Pitch 2: (Var 1 and 2) Follow the right-leaning corner at the left edge of the left-facing wall, past a tree that juts out, (Var.3) then up to a belay beneath the large, topmost ceiling.
Pitch 3: Pass right around the ceiling to the top.

Adventurous variations
Variation 1: Shades of Death 5.8 PG/R
Variation 2: Death Ledges 5.7 PG/R
Variation 3: Valhalla 5.10d PG/R
Variation 4: Heart of Darkness 5.10a PG/R

Location 

Start at a shallow groove 20' right of the right end or the Cheatstone block.

Protection 

2 sets of nuts, small to large cams up to 3". hexes, lots of 2' slings


Photos of Black Wall Slideshow Add Photo
This boring photo shows the start of the route Black Wall which begins in the inside corner on the left.
BETA PHOTO: This boring photo shows the start of the route Bla...

Comments on Black Wall Add Comment
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By zxcv
May 18, 2011

This is actually a good route for the area as the exposure and moves are both enjoyable. The crux pitch (2nd) can easily feel harder than 5.7 unless you consistently look for stemming opportunities, which are there. Proper stemming brings the grade into the 5.7+ range as the overhanging right hand wall makes the route strenuous regardless.

Although the huge ledge on top of the 2nd pitch looks inviting, neither myself nor my partner find it a comfortable belay area and tend to climb directly to the Truimverate bolts or up an offwidth to top out. In either case, communication can be a real problem as highway noise decrease audibility of calls and rope drag makes pulling signals difficult to read. Plan ahead for this and enjoy the route.
Chris Loebsack stemming up the Black Wall
Chris Loebsack stemming up the Black Wall
By Larry S
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great route! Overhanging jugs and stemming on P2 are not to be missed. P1 looks like it can have some fun variations. For an easy 1st pitch, stay left when you can. We ended the second pitch and belayed on an uncomfortable ledge under the final roof and had a short third pitch involving a battle with a cedar. I had no trouble sewing this thing up, i'd call it G-rated for the hard sections, PG for the easier.
By Larry S
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Repeated this route again and with spring hitting it's becoming a safari on p2. With some gardening to remove the vegetation this would be a very good climb.
By Larry S
May 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cleaned this route today while climbing it. The safari i mentioned above on P2 is taken care of, no more bush in your face every 8 feet, and no battle with a little birch tree and pricker bush at the crux. P1 had a bunch of grass and dirt removed, revealing a number of giant bucket holds. I was cleaning while going up though, so a good rain might be needed to get the dirt I was raining down cleaned up.