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L to R R to L Alpha
Rated 5.9 in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing NM" book and 5.10c in the J.M. Beverly "Jemez Rock" book, I'd have to say it's somewhere in the middle of those two ratings.
Start in dark rock about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb. Look for the shallow dihedral up high. Belay from above on the large ledge and walk off. This route #26 in Wa3lt's beta photo.
Doubles of tiny, small and medium cams (up to .5 camalot) along with small wires. WC Superlight Rocks are perfect for this route. One of the bolted anchors at the Playground is at the top of this route. Super long slings or static rope will allow you to clip the bolts and extend the rope carabiners to the edge. Otherwise you'll get some drag and maybe knock some little rocks off the ledge.