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The Playground
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Black Wall T,TR 
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Route 25 T,TR 
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Texas T,TR 
Tree Climb T,TR 
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 
Upper Left Roof T,TR 
Vulture Roof TR 
Zander Zigzag T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Wall 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jan 26, 2008

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Description 

Rated 5.9 in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing NM" book and 5.10c in the J.M. Beverly "Jemez Rock" book, I'd have to say it's somewhere in the middle of those two ratings.
This is a nice but not often climbed route that starts about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb.
Start with moderate moves off the ground on a small rounded prow to a good stance below a tiny roof. Pull over the tiny roof using the finger crack and small but positive edges on the face on both sides of the crack (crux) into the shallow dihedral above. Stem your way to the top using the tiny crack for pro to big jugs to exit onto a large ledge.

This route doesn't see much traffic and is often dirty because it seems it is a natural drainage for rain run-off. A good strategy is to talk your friend into leading it first so he can clean it up a bit for you.


Location 

Start in dark rock about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb. Look for the shallow dihedral up high. Belay from above on the large ledge and walk off. This route #26 in Wa3lt's beta photo.


Protection 

Doubles of tiny, small and medium cams (up to .5 camalot) along with small wires. WC Superlight Rocks are perfect for this route. One of the bolted anchors at the Playground is at the top of this route. Super long slings or static rope will allow you to clip the bolts and extend the rope carabiners to the edge. Otherwise you'll get some drag and maybe knock some little rocks off the ledge.



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