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Black Velvet Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 
Ancient Futures 
Cutting Edge 
Dream of Wild Turkeys 
Epinephrine 
Fiddler on the Roof 
Gobbler, The 
I'm Not Worthy 
Johnny Come Lately 
Lone Star 
My Little Pony 
Overhanging Hangover 
Prince of Darkness 
Refried Brains 
Rock Warrior 
Sour Mash 
Spark Plug 
Texanephrine 
Texas Hold 'Em 
Texas Tower Direct 
Velveeta 
Velvet Tongue, The 
Yellow Brick Road 

Black Velvet Wall 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Black Velvet Wall

Description 

This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.


Getting There 

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Refried Brains   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II   
Epinephrine   5.9     Trad, 13 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV   
Overhanging Hangover   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Sour Mash   5.10a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet   
Dream of Wild Turkeys   5.10a     Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   
The Gobbler   5.10-     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   
Spark Plug   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Rock Warrior   5.10b R     Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II   
Yellow Brick Road   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet   
Johnny Come Lately   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Prince of Darkness   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   
Fiddler on the Roof   5.10+     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   
Lone Star   5.11     Trad, Grade V   
Texas Hold 'Em   5.11c     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100 feet   
The Velvet Tongue   5.12+     Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Black Velvet Wall

Featured Route For Black Velvet Wall
Brian coming out of a stem up on Lone Star

Lone Star 5.11  NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall
Although it is entirely possible to link pitches or climb in other areas of the cliff (sometimes confusing, esp. down low and right above the Texas Tower), this is what we did:P1: ~100ft right of Epinephrine and ~80' left of a chimney corner scramble and climb up some face climbing (5.8) and left to a ledge, 100'.P2: trend right from the belay and follow crack system to the left of Texas Hold'em, belay at a small stance above a scrub oak in the crack. 5.7, 80'P3: Traverse right on edges to the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Black Velvet Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Black Velvet Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Black Velvet Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.


A typical day in the Velvet.   <br /> <br />Red = Prince of Darkness, Green = Fiddler on the Roof, Purple = Dream of Wild Turkeys, Blue = Epinepherine

BETA PHOTO: A typical day in the Velvet.

Red = Prince of Da...


Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at the bottom of the photo) on the 2nd pitch of POD.  Photo taken by Darshan Ahluwalia

Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...

Frogland buttress.

Frogland buttress.

Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin' close.

Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...

Black Velvet Peak moonset

Black Velvet Peak moonset

Black Velvet Wall

Black Velvet Wall

September 2004.

September 2004.

Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai

Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai

Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 images.

BETA PHOTO: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...

The Black Velvet Wall

The Black Velvet Wall


Comments on Black Velvet Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By timoteo
Jul 30, 2009

Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Jul 30, 2009

Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!

By timoteo
Jul 31, 2009

I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?


By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2009

No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.

By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009

Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!

By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 19, 2009

I had an awesome first day at the Black Velvet Wall this Saturday (10/17/09), but I just realized I left my red Leki trecking poles at the base of the 3rd class cliff band on the approach. What a buzz kill!

If any kind soul happens to find my trecking poles, please drop me a line: c) 949-322-3963

Thanks!

By Kevin Volkening
Mar 18, 2012

Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be?