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Black Velvet Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
Ancient Futures T 
Cutting Edge T 
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 
Epinephrine T 
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 
Gobbler, The T 
I'm Not Worthy T 
Johnny Come Lately S 
Lone Star T 
My Little Pony T 
Overhanging Hangover T 
Prince of Darkness T,S 
Refried Brains T 
Rock Warrior T 
Sandstone Samurai T 
Shuffle, The T 
Smooth as Silk T 
Sour Mash T 
Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
Texanephrine T 
Texas Hold 'Em T 
Texas Tower Direct T 
Velveeta T 
Velvet Tongue, The T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 

Black Velvet Wall  

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Location: 36.03518, -115.46652 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 788,148
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Getting There 

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Epinephrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 13 pitches, 1600'   
Refried Brains   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 800'   
Overhanging Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sour Mash   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Dream of Wild Turkeys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
The Gobbler   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Spark Plug   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rock Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 6 pitches   
Yellow Brick Road   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   
Johnny Come Lately   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Prince of Darkness   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700'   
Fiddler on the Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 500'   
Texanephrine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 14 pitches, 1500'   
Smooth as Silk   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 340'   
Sandstone Samurai   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   
Lone Star   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Grade V   
Texas Hold 'Em   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   
Cutting Edge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
The Velvet Tongue   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Texas Tower Direct   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Black Velvet Wall

Featured Route For Black Velvet Wall
2nd Pitch.  Fun moves!

The Gobbler 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall
This is a fun and interesting climb that is more often used as an approach pitch to Fiddler On The Roof or Dream of Wild Turkeys than it is climbed for its own merit, but I thought it was a fun route deserving of it's own attention.To locate this route, start at the base of the shared start of 'Prince Of Darkness' & 'Dream Of Wild Turkeys'. Walk to the right 40' and look up a line of two bolts in light-colored rock.P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up and past these two bolts, then go sharply right for some...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Local Information for Black Velvet Wall
Photos of Black Velvet Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Black Velvet Peak moonset
Black Velvet Peak moonset
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
A typical day in the Velvet.    Red = Prince of Da...
BETA PHOTO: A typical day in the Velvet. Red = Prince of Da...
Black Velvet Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Black Velvet Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Black Velvet Wall
Black Velvet Wall
Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
September 2004.
September 2004.
Frogland buttress.
Frogland buttress.
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
The Black Velvet Wall
The Black Velvet Wall

Comments on Black Velvet Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Nov 30, 2014
If you picked up a jacket and a vest that were folded and had rocks on them near the wilderness boundary on Thanksgiving day, please give me a call.
970 596 9032
By timoteo
Jul 30, 2009
Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado
By Larry DeAngelo
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 30, 2009
Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!
By timoteo
Jul 31, 2009
I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2009
No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.
By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009
Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 19, 2009
I had an awesome first day at the Black Velvet Wall this Saturday (10/17/09), but I just realized I left my red Leki trecking poles at the base of the 3rd class cliff band on the approach. What a buzz kill!

If any kind soul happens to find my trecking poles, please drop me a line: c) 949-322-3963

By Kevin Volkening
Mar 18, 2012
Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be?
By Stone Nude
Dec 5, 2014
To whichever admin deleted the Yellow Rose of Texas page, I'd like to tip my hat. I was up on that route a couple weeks ago replacing some very old hardware (btw there are still bad pro bolts on the 5.11 face section, will be back to do more shortly but for the time being, be warned) and shaking my head at the idea that a cut and paste job from Handren's guide by a guy who never touched the route is the best we have to offer. Glad that those in need of Handren's description can just buy his book instead of the Napster version on here.
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