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DescriptionBlack Velvet Canyon could well be called the crown jewel of Red Rocks. The black, varnished rock is of the highest quality and its walls host a high concentration of excellent and longer trade routes. With walls over 2,000 feet high, the canyon receives little sunlight and as such can be quite a bit cooler than other areas. Area classics include Epinephrine (V 5.9, 12-18 pitches), Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Frogland (5.8), Triassic Sands (5.10c), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a), Yellow Brick Road (5.10a), Refried Brains (5.9) and many others that I haven't yet climbed. As expected, the classics tend to be crowded (especially Frogland, Prince of Darkness, and Epinephrine). It is recommended to have an alternative in mind should there be a queue for your desired route. Getting ThereUnlike much of the Red Rocks area, Black Velvet Canyon is NOT accessed via the Scenic Loop Road. Instead, from the Red Rock Canyon Campground (a.k.a. "13 Mile Campground"), drive southeast on Hwy 159. At the intersection with Hwy 160 (gas station w/ good beer selection), turn right (west) for approximately 4.5 miles towards Pahrump. Be on the lookout for a pullout and road on the right-hand (north) side. There is a paved parking lot here (called the "Latenight Trailhead" by the mountain bike set) with rest rooms. Follow the dirt road north from the parking area. After a mile or two the road makes a left turn (west) at a usually closed gate and ends at a parking area near the mouth of the canyon. Although fairly bumpy, 2WD vehicles **should** be okay on this road. Park and follow the well-defined trail from here. Count on a half hour to 1 hour for approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Canyon:
Frogland 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet Whiskey Peak
Epinephrine 5.9 Trad, 13 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV Black Velvet Wall
Overhanging Hangover 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Black Velvet Wall
Sour Mash 5.10a Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet Black Velvet Wall
Wholesome Fullback 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet Whiskey Peak
Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Black Velvet Wall
Rock Warrior 5.10b R Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II Black Velvet Wall
Yellow Brick Road 5.10b Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet Black Velvet Wall
Triassic Sands 5.10 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II Whiskey Peak
Our Father 5.10 R Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Whiskey Peak
Prince of Darkness 5.10c Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Black Velvet Wall
Fiddler on the Roof 5.10+ Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Black Velvet Wall
The Schwa 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet The Schwa Area
The Delicate Sound of Thunder 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Whiskey Peak
Lizard Locks 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Monument
Only the Good Die Young 5.11c Trad, Sport, 5 pitches Whiskey Peak
Ixtlan 5.11c Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet Whiskey Peak
Texas Hold 'Em 5.11c Trad, 9 pitches, 1100 feet Black Velvet Wall
The Velvet Tongue 5.12+ Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Black Velvet Wall
Desert Gold 5.13a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet The Monument
Featured Route For Black Velvet Canyon
Desert Gold 5.13a PG13 NV : Red Rock : ... : The Monument
An inspired linkup of Scumby 5.8, Desert Crack 5.12D, and Desert Reality 11c. Classic route with a spectrum of desert climbing situations: chossy sugar cookie face and crack leads to a bolt protecting a circuitous traverse into a steep splitter defined by an overhanging ringlock crux to a 14-foot widening perfect hand crack roof. If it gets any better than this, I wanna know where!...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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