Black Uhuru 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 260 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Dan Dingle, Ken Black |
| Season: | Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | rhyang on Aug 9, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Black Uhuru (5.6) -- follow the bla...
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Description Fun two-pitch slab climb up a black streak on knobs. Recently updated with modern bolts. Trad bolting may feel runout to new leaders.
First pitch: 2 bolts and 2" piece, 100' to gear belay
Second pitch: 4 bolts, 160' to two-bolt anchor with rap rings
Descent: Rappel the route to the main Bunny Slopes ledge.
Location Left of Wild in the Streaks (5.7) but starts ~100' below the main Bunny Slopes ledge. Scramble directly up to the ledge from the road, or head down from the main ledge.
Protection 1-3" cams for first belay, 4 quickdraws
By Greg Barnes
Oct 15, 2010
| The cam placement on the first pitch (first piece off the ground, protecting the slick crux) is a shallow 1" cam, not 2".
You can do a 3rd pitch by climbing up to some holes (tri-cams would work if you have any, and there is a sneaky but bomber #1 camalot placement), then slab climbing left and up a ramp to the top anchor of Hit or Miss. If you continue straight up the streak, it gets easy, but there is no anchor of any sort. The Reid/Falkenstein guide shows rap anchors down Walkman, but if these ever existed, they have been chopped. |
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