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Black Uhuru 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Rotert
Page Views: 7,260
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Nov 23, 2002

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Brian on Black Uhuru

Description 

Black Uhuru has got to be one of the best 5.10s anywhere. Begin on the far left side of the wall, well past scarface, sicilian, etc., underneath a huge varnished right facing corner. The climb begins up some easy ledges to the splitter corner. Climb this with jams and laybacks. The climb has several difficult sections with good rests/hand jams and takes all sizes of gear. This is a long pitch and needs two ropes to get off safely (maybe 1 rope reaches the top of the ledges but it has been a while and I don't trust my memory)

Protection 

Friends to 3". Heavy on the .5" - 2.0" range.


Photos of Black Uhuru Slideshow Add Photo
Long, beautiful, fun- Black Uruhu, Indian Creek
Long, beautiful, fun- Black Uruhu, Indian Creek
Starting the early lieback section
Starting the early lieback section
A restful stem on Black Uhuru.
A restful stem on Black Uhuru.
Good stem rest before more buisness, Black Uruhu, ...
Good stem rest before more buisness, Black Uruhu, ...
Charlie takin' a breather
Charlie takin' a breather

Comments on Black Uhuru Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 11, 2003

This description doesn't fit the route I've always been told is Black Uhuru. Unless I'm mistaken Black Uhuru is near Scarface, and is the next dihedral to the left of the hand-to-wide hand crack Where's Carruthers. It is a left facing dihedral which is climbed via twin cracks (one is thin hands in the dihedral, the other is wide hands on the face) into a chimney. The chimney is exited via cruxy liebacks to another lieback section before the anchors. If I remember correctly, the crux is actually best protected by stoppers and is a rare Indian Creek 5.10 that felt for-real for the grade.
By Max Schon
Oct 12, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The hands corner just to the left of Where's Carruthers is not BU. The above description is accurate in terms of the climbs location. The climb has a plaque below it. BU has a lot of fingers as well, with a short finger crux near the top.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 29, 2006

This is an awesome 5.10 pitch, classic for sure. Cool finish crawling into the pod at the top!
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 4, 2007

I'm pretty sure this route is Where's Carruthers.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 5, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

'where's carruthers' is only about 5 feet left of scarface. starts in a hanging flare of sorts (off fingers to tight hands) and then goes to a straight in right facing dihedral with hands to fists.
the route listed on this page definitely isn't WC. it looks like black uhuru.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Oct 28, 2008

Joe Gartner's route description is accurate for Black Uhuru. We did this with a 70 m rope belaying from the ledge, and didn't have any problems lowering. I don't recall how much rope we had remaining, so I'm not sure if 60 m is sufficient. Even for small hands, I had to layback parts of it but there are facial features allowing for decent rests. This is a great climb.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a beautiful varnished corner that looks harder than it really is. There are a number of no hands rests between the hard lieback sections.

Here is a rack recommendation:

1 #0.3/0.4, 5-7 #0.5, 3-4 #0.75, and 2 #1,2 camalots...
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route. 70m works from the top of the ledges. Plentiful rests keep the climbing more moderate than it appears. Lots of #.5 BD
By davecro
From: Golden, CO
May 9, 2011

Guidebook says the anchors are at 100 feet. We did this with a 60 meter rope and belayed / lowered below the ledge.

Was not a soft 5.10.

Bring lots of #0.5 camalots.
By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

So fun.... I would say at least 1 ton.

I placed (1) #.4, (4) #.5, (1) #1, (2) #2
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

my 70m put me down to the dirt on rappel. I believe I used 3-4 0.4, 2 0.5, 3 #1, 1 #2, and 1 #3 camalot sizes.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 7, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

damn, only 2 .5's. i used a pile of them, but the crack varies a bit so you can probably get a lot of other stuff.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Ya Slim I've got fat fingers so 0.5 camalots feel pretty secure for the layback, but 0.4 I've gotta mash my digits in there to get a good fit. This thing climbs really well though with stances visible from a few feet away so I felt like I could gun it, and feel good about a little runout here and there.
By Brian Alexander
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A single 60m easily reaches the huge ledge right off the ground, but remember to put a knot in the end. I was happy to have one #3 Camalot at the top before the mantle.