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Castle Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Tower Crack T 
Damsel in Distress T 
Easy As Your Best Friends Sister T 
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend S 
Hard As Your Husband T 
Trebuchet T 

Black Tower Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Mike Newheart leading, just getting past the steep...

Description 

Start up twin cracks with a wide section on the left and climb up about 15' or so to where the angle kicks back and jugs appear on the face to the left. Higher up another steep section is encountered just before the top.

Note: there are several second pitch options available which start from the anchors atop this route.

Location 

The obvious dihedral crack right of Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend.

Protection 

gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of Black Tower Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
Black Tower Crack (5.7), Castle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Black Tower Crack (5.7), Castle Rock
Looking up the start of Black Tower Crack
Looking up the start of Black Tower Crack
 Black Tower Crack
Black Tower Crack

Comments on Black Tower Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

After the opening steep bit becomes more of a juggy face climb with a crack for pro.
By Daniel Evans
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Oct 8, 2013

No definite crux. However the first 15 ft. and the slight roof pull towards the middle of the route are the highlights of the climb. Great climb with a lot of different moves (stemming, chimney, jams, etc.) and protects very well. The crack eats gear and provides the climber solid stances to place pro. Highly recommend.