Black Tie Affair  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Daniel Montague New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  DanM on Aug 30, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Full first pitch, anchors, and partial second pitc...

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Train Property MORE INFO >>> While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Starting out the left corner of the pit, head up a jagged, overhanging crack. (The route might be marked by an Indian Creek style stone at the base). The first pitch follows the previously mentioned crack (system) all the way to a ledge at ~100 feet. On the way to the anchors, you will climb an overhang to a tricky mantle, a short slab section, another overhang, another slab, and the final crux, an ever-so-slightly overhanging face split by a rapidly closing crack.

P2: This pitch is best avoided. However, if you're interested, climb up from the anchors to a loose crack that leads over the small roof and then head up to the top. Pitch 2 can be done in one rope length if you don't mind a little drag. Keep a good eye out for loose rock on this pitch.

Location 

The left edge of the train tunnel wall. This crack is obvious from the bridge.

Protection 

Assuming you climbed the first pitch, the gear on the second pitch is trivial. That being said, for the first pitch, you'll want a wide range. A standard rack should do with a few extra pieces: there's a perfect placement for a #6 C4 just before the second overhang, a shallow Red C3 or similar piece is absolutely crucial just before the final crux unless you have a slider nut for the preceeding horizontal. Just for ease of mind, you can save a #1 C4 to protect the mantle to the anchors. The gear is all there, but it can be tricky to suss out.

Photos of Black Tie Affair Slideshow

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Black Tie Affair starting from the pit

Bringing Martin up through the crux