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Routes in Marshfield Ledge
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"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bidin' Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boneless Chicken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Planet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chicken Wing Slab S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dragon Fly Theater S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Empty Clip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Falcons Fury T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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French Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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I Feel Pretty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marshfield Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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My Lucky Bun Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Sick Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiers of Joy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ultra-Violet Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vicious Cycle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Vuonilla S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Wasp flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Wee Bitty Arachnid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Zach Landis, Jen Lloyd, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 3,683 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Landis on Dec 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
As of July 2018, Black Streak has received a make over. The old wonky bolts are gonzo. In their place are 9 glue-in Wave bolts and a new anchor. It climbs much better. Before this upgrade one would have to place gear in the left facing corner, then run it out passing 5 suspect bolts. The current set up is a far more civil affair.
Start the route where the approach trail arrives at the cliff. Instead of heading into the left facing corner crack, as the route was previously climbed, zig-zag up the easy slab to a glue in wave bolt. A tricky move past this first bolt gets you off and running up the black streak. Cool holds and technical climbing lead you past 8 more glue-in bolts until the last dash to the ledge and a new 2-bolt anchor and chain. While the route is 36 meters, you can just get down with a 60 meter rope if you pendulum to the right on rappel to where the ground comes a bit higher up the cliff. A wonderful line of bullet granite.
Start the route where the approach trail arrives at the cliff. Instead of heading into the left facing corner crack, as the route was previously climbed, zig-zag up the easy slab to a glue in wave bolt. A tricky move past this first bolt gets you off and running up the black streak. Cool holds and technical climbing lead you past 8 more glue-in bolts until the last dash to the ledge and a new 2-bolt anchor and chain. While the route is 36 meters, you can just get down with a 60 meter rope if you pendulum to the right on rappel to where the ground comes a bit higher up the cliff. A wonderful line of bullet granite.
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