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Black Streak 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Keefe & Menzo Baird (1989)
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: John Knight on Sep 12, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...

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Description 

To find this route, just look right of P-Crack. It follows the obvious "black streak". This route shares the middle and upper P-Crack anchors. If lead from the ground, this route is over 100'. You can top rope the route after climbing P-Crack. To top rope, your climber will need to climb up about 20' of 4th class in the BIG crack that leads to the 1st P-Crack anchors (or bring a 70 meter rope!). The bolts are currently the original quarter-inchers placed by Ed & Menzo in 1989. They include some home made hangers to boot. Lichen adds another interesting element. This could be a really great route if properly cleaned & re-bolted.


Protection 

If led from the ground, bring a bunch (8?) of draws and small pro. The lower section is lead with gear, while the upper section has 3 bolts.



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By Jody Langford
Sep 13, 2004

"I'd be happy to replace the bolts (and clean lichen) "

Watch it John! Remember what happened the last time you "cleaned lichen"?!

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Oct 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Desperate!

I would be too scared to lead this thing even with new bolts! As it is, I wouldn't even hang a houseplant from those bolts.

I tr'd it expecting "5.9+" but I would agree with the "at least .10a" opinion. I guess I would call it 5.9 plus one.

By vincent L.
Apr 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

The route is pretty clean these days. It is runout and a few of the bolts are old and don't inspire much confidence.

It is a pretty good route though with good moves on mostly solid rock.

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Apr 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

I am happy to see the .10b consensus...I thought it was just me!