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Black Snake 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Coyne, Reynolds?
Page Views: 2,682
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Laura starting up the easy part of the P4 OW.

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great, shorter outing on the South Rim. It tops out practically on the road with no chossaneering. Good rock throughout with some nice, continuous, hand cracks on the first pitches. Good, safe climbing. Mostly shaded.

A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.

P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.

P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.

P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.

P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.

P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.

P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.

P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.

P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.

You should be able to see your car from here.

Location 

This is on the north-facing wall in the gully to the south (skier's left) of Dragon Point. The route can easily be scoped from the rim. Descend into gulley just off the parking.

Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).

Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.

Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.

Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.

Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.

Protection 

Set of nuts (including smallish stuff).
Double set of cams to #3.5 Friend size.
#4 and #4.5 Camalot (old).

Bring some webbing to replace rappels if necessary.


Photos of Black Snake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exciting p5 traverse.
Exciting p5 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: The tire marks where you scramble up to the base o...
BETA PHOTO: The tire marks where you scramble up to the base o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt topping out the p4. Not quite sure while I'm ...
Matt topping out the p4. Not quite sure while I'm ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben crusing the short crux of p6. The unmentioned ...
Ben crusing the short crux of p6. The unmentioned ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben pulling onto the bired shit covered chockstone...
Ben pulling onto the bired shit covered chockstone...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the upper part of p3. Once above the roof (...
Ben on the upper part of p3. Once above the roof (...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt linking the 2nd half of p2 into p3. A fun pit...
Matt linking the 2nd half of p2 into p3. A fun pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 4th pitch OW as seen from Dragon Point.
The 4th pitch OW as seen from Dragon Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Comments on Black Snake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Jul 17, 2010

This is tough, physical, crack climb! The off-width is good, and there are tons of hand jams and a little spice here and there. The gear is right on and would like one more 3 and 4 cam. The last pitch is not a gimme! The P6 up and down area is cool with a bolt not drawn on the topo, you will see it off the belay up and right. Only a spot of sun around 10 or 11 am. P8 is actually overhung 0.5's right off the belay to fists!
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Oct 6, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Get your burl on for this one! Black Snake is a quality 5.11 rock climb, with no pitch being a gimme. We were happy with doubles from black Alien to #2, 3 x #3, 1 x old #3.5, 1 x new #4, 1 x new #5, single set nuts. It's not a desert splitter, so the sizes in the bigger ranges are flexible. Even thought this climb has only 8 pitches, I'd recommend giving yourself plenty of daylight. It's on 'til the end!

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