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Lord Of The Flies Wall
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All Strung Out on Crack S 
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Black Slabbath 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 1,302
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Eric starting out on Black Slabbath.


This blank looking route climbs the black face on the left side of the main wall. The climbing begins with a powerful section up the pocketed wall leading to a big sidepull/ledge. From here, the holds get very small and far apart resulting in great vertical climbing between widely spaced bolts (by canyon standards).
One of my best route names, if I do say so myself...


7 bolts, open cold shut anchors

Photos of Black Slabbath Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crimp fest!
Upper crimp fest!

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By t.schwartz
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

can be 12+ with no chalk, awesome climb
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a should be judged by. It has it all and then some. Absolutely, positively the sickest line I have ever done. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. You will not be disappointed. For me this was a cool, August morning that I will never forget. Thanks for bolting Black Slabbath, Greg. This is one truly amazing climb!
By Greg Parker
Aug 11, 2013

That made my day! Thanks Brent!
By JR Cook
From: Lake Forest, CA
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Best sport route I have done to date! Do this route if you're in the area! Bolts are perfectly placed with great clipping stances, even though they may be spaced a bit farther than is the norm for Spearfish.

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