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Black Sheets of Rain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Jan 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Man climbing "Black Sheets of Rain"

Description 

An abosolute must do! A 5.10a meant to keep 5.10 climbers honest. This is one of the best damn climbs at this grade, but has a hard-ass roof pull crux that would make Ghandi want to punch a nun in the face.

However, with that said, once you throw yourself against this climb enough and work out the beta you will fall in love it and want to do it over and over again every time you climb. Routes graded 5.10- should not be give-aways that any douche can crawl up and this is a route that reaffirms this grade and gives a much needed challenge.

Get on this thing! You will love it! It has everything a 5.10 should have! Big pockets! Bomber holds! The crux is a wild roof pull to even harder terain and the route finishes up on slab that will have you praying for the anchors. This climb is harder and more rewarding than just about any 5.10a I've climbed anywhere else in the country.

Get on it and learn to work for that red point!

Protection 

10 quickdraws


Photos of Black Sheets of Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Kyle Thompson pulls the roof on Black Sheets of Rain, 5.10a <br /> <br />Big Black Face, Sunshine Wall. <br /> <br />Spearfish Canyon, South Dakota.
Kyle Thompson pulls the roof on Black Sheets of Ra...
Black Sheets of Rain, an awesome climb with a burley, technical roof pull. <br /> <br />Don't feel bad if you don't onsight this climb, no one has.
Black Sheets of Rain, an awesome climb with a burl...

Comments on Black Sheets of Rain Add Comment
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By Dreez
Jul 4, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

wow what a cool route

mostly 5.9 great bolting 2 moves 5.10 above roof
By Max Grossman
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was climbing this and decided to take a small lead fall to ease the outdoor nerves. Clipped the bolt below the roof, pulled my hips over the lip, and let go. Unfortunately the bolt ripped out (I'm 185 lbs; nothing super heavy), I was flipped, and was caught upside down about 20 feet down. We left a note at the climb's base, but heads up that it's a bit run out there.
By Mikel Cronin
Aug 1, 2014

Max
Sorry to hear that you had a bolt pull out. Glad you are ok! I will make the needed repair with a bigger and better bolt.