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Black Sabbath 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FFA - Eric Decaria, Brad Barlage - Nov 18-19, 1995
Page Views: 2,013
Submitted By: eDixon on Mar 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route. The chimney start is out of...

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  • Description 

    I have also seen this route called "Savior". Not sure which is accurate.

    Pitch 1 - Start by climbing a chimney and then traverse right on large ledge. Belay off gear. (5.7)

    Pitch 2 - Follow crack from the ledge. This crack bends up and left. There is an old bolt ladder on the right. Hanging belay from bolted anchor. (5.11)

    Pitch 3 - Do a face traverse to the left and climb a crack that goes from tight hands - hands - offwidth - chimney. Belay on ledge from bolts. (5.10)

    Pitch 4 - Same finish as Jah Man. Climb the face past bolts to the summit. (5.9)

    Descent - Rappel Jah Man.


    The route starts on the north face of Sister Superior. Head around the corner from Jah Man. It is just past a bolted line and the chimney is hard to miss.


    Aliens - (1)Blue,(1)Green,(3)Yellow
    Camalots - (3).5-1, (2)2-3, (1)4
    Extra long runners

    Photos of Black Sabbath Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 and Pitch 3.
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 and Pitch 3.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
    BETA PHOTO: Topo

    Comments on Black Sabbath Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott McLeod
    May 12, 2014

    This route deserves a bit more credit, and traffic, than its given. It is splitter! We got on it as an alternative to Jah Man because it was so crowded, and it turned out to be amazing.

    Also, if you want to get straight to the business, consider the direct start. We didn't do the chimney and traverse in, we just came straight in from below. It is very straight forward, 5.7 or something. We were hustling so we linked all the way up to the hanging belay in a single pitch, with with no drag, but I didn't place any gear on the approach pitch.
    By carter jensen
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    May 12, 2014

    I'd say pitch two is as good as any I've done in Castle Valley. We used a new #4 camalot on pitch 3 and found one constriction in the crack where it worked, barely. I'd probably bring an old #4 or new #5 if I were to do it again.

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