Black Sabbath 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | FFA - Eric Decaria, Brad Barlage - Nov 18-19, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Mar 28, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route. The chimney start is out of...
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Description I have also seen this route called "Savior". Not sure which is accurate. Pitch 1 - Start by climbing a chimney and then traverse right on large ledge. Belay off gear. (5.7) Pitch 2 - Follow crack from the ledge. This crack bends up and left. There is an old bolt ladder on the right. Hanging belay from bolted anchor. (5.11) Pitch 3 - Do a face traverse to the left and climb a crack that goes from tight hands - hands - offwidth - chimney. Belay on ledge from bolts. (5.10) Pitch 4 - Same finish as Jah Man. Climb the face past bolts to the summit. (5.9) Descent - Rappel Jah Man.
Location The route starts on the north face of Sister Superior. Head around the corner from Jah Man. It is just past a bolted line and the chimney is hard to miss.
Protection Aliens - (1)Blue,(1)Green,(3)Yellow Camalots - (3).5-1, (2)2-3, (1)4 Extra long runners
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 and Pitch 3.
| BETA PHOTO: Topo
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