Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
FA: | Dave Asscherick |
Page Views: | 1,775 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Dan Dewell on Aug 31, 2003 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
"Black Roughy" is a sit-start problem on the Eastern exposure of the Black Roughy Boulder following an overhanging seam, and is also known as "God is Love."
Begin sitting in front of the obvious chalked-up block.
Move up and cross-through to an undercling with the right hand. The left hand then goes to a slopey crimp in the flaring seam, then right hand up to the same level on a crimp, right foot to the starting hold. Next move: bring the right hand to a REALLY bad sloper-crimp, bring the left foot up a little (to the aforementioned "slopey crimp" after the start), then fall back to a gaston at your face (it isn't exactly falling back though), and make the last hard move to the sloper with the left hand and match. From there, top it out.
Arguably the best V8 on Baldy!
Begin sitting in front of the obvious chalked-up block.
Move up and cross-through to an undercling with the right hand. The left hand then goes to a slopey crimp in the flaring seam, then right hand up to the same level on a crimp, right foot to the starting hold. Next move: bring the right hand to a REALLY bad sloper-crimp, bring the left foot up a little (to the aforementioned "slopey crimp" after the start), then fall back to a gaston at your face (it isn't exactly falling back though), and make the last hard move to the sloper with the left hand and match. From there, top it out.
Arguably the best V8 on Baldy!
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