BETA PHOTO: 1 Yuji Feet 5.11c 2 Black Rose 5.10d ...
Black Rose offers a handful of short, challenging routes up sheer faces of beautiful, smooth quartzite. It also has the nice distinction of being the easiest rock to reach in the canyon.
Because all of the bolted routes are 5.10 or higher it never attracts the crowds that frequently flock to Red Slab or The Kitchen.
Start from the Rock Canyon parking lot. You can see Red Slab on the south side of the canyon from the parking lot. Black Rose is located right off from the trail, just to the left side and below Red Slab.
Walk upcanyon along the paved trail (take the right path for the easiest approach). After about a ten minute walk you will see a jumble of broken rocks and a trail that leads up to Red Slab. Black Rose is the tall, blank faces directly off from the trail to the east of the broken rocks.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Rose:
A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge for the jug out to the right. Footwork is key. Cont...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
In 2003 the landowner started excavating for landscaping rock. (Most of the quartzite areas in Rock Canyon are on private property.) Legal action, and the purchase of an interest in the property arranged by the city of Provo and local philanthropists stopped the excavation, at least for now.
See here for a photo of the Black Rose area before the damage caused by the excavation.
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 28, 2007