The majority of the routes on the Sunny Side are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. The Shady Side routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, with the largest number in the 5.10 range.
This is a great place after a big rain when all of the area's sandstone is wet, and when it is cold out.
From downtown Saint George, drive north on Bluff Street (don't turn left towards Santa Clara). Drive approximately 1.5 miles past the turn to Snow Canyon State Park, passing the parking area for the Chuckawalla trailhead on the left.
Park here and walk north on the bike trail a hundred feet or so, then branch left onto the canyon trail. The trail crosses a fence with a tortoise barrier.
Start by laybacking to reach out left to reach the beginning of the arete. Crux is pulling up into the arete from a heel hook and trying to get a stance to clip the 2nd bolt. The climb eases up considerably once you pass the 2nd bolt. Nice bouldery moves at the begining. This route is easily top roped by climbing Flirting with the Mutants, 5.11b to the right. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Is it possible to divide this area into the sunny side and shady side, and then group the routes accordingly? It would make it a lot easier for users to plan a trip (rather than looking at every route to determine where it is).
I find it strange that people complain about bolted cracks at Crawdad but not here. Seems like the same set up as Crawdad except the fact that you have to pay to climb in Crawdad. Both places are still fun to climb, love the sic nar pockets.
I have not seen anyone mention that this crag is closed from mid March to June 30th every year due to desert wildlife conservation (Desert Tortoise). If you are planning a trip in the spring, count Black Rocks out.
Just a word about climbing etiquette: if draws are left up on a climb, they haven't been abandoned, and it does not mean you are entitled to take them. I came back the next day and my draws had been taken off 'Flying off the Handle.' I walked over to the sunny side and asked a group, and they immediately gave them back and said I shouldn't leave my draws in such a popular area. I know you run the risk of getting draws stolen when you leave them up, (in this case it was overnight) but if you take them, it is still stealing. Feel free to use them, but don't steal them. Fun climb! Great work to the gumbie who made it to the top in efforts of stealing on thanksgiving day!