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Black River Falls

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Antichrist, The 
Box-car boulder, The 
Brass Wall 
Clean Cut Boulder 
Cranberry Boulder 
Cube, The 
Fat Man Corridor 
Hidden Cavern, The 
House Boulders 
Ill-Advised Ridge 
Jesus Boulder 
Lookout rock 
Man-eater Boulder, The 
Overlook Wall 
Penguin Boulder, The 
Porcelain Wall 
SE Point 
Slider 
Sonic Youth Boulder 
Stack Boulder 
Tall Boy 
Tilted Boulder 
Tree Boulder 

Black River Falls 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.2793, -90.8187 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,414
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Remo on Jul 1, 2007
Forecast:
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Jay on the Cube, left arete problem. June or July...

Description 

Castle Mounds State Park in Black River Falls has great variety of good bullet hard sandstone boulders. People have been bouldering here for a long time. In the late 80's and early 90's Dave Groth and company developed many of the now classic problems.
Climbing access to the park is questionable. I've never run into any trouble with park personnel, but it is always a good idea to be respectful and considerate of state parks and tread lightly. Best time to climb is in spring or fall (all WI), but all year can be good.


Getting There 

From I-94 exit at B.R.F. onto HWY 54. head west for a couple miles till you reach HWY 27. Head south on 27 until you reach HWY 12 east. Turn left here and the park is just up the road on the right.
Park, and hike to the Overlook Point. Boulders are scattered near overlook.


Climbing Season


52 Total Routes


['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',28],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black River Falls:
Corner Problem   V1+ 5     Boulder, 12'   The Cube
Slot   V2 5+     Boulder, 13'   The Cube
Jesus Boulder Arete   V2-3 5+ PG13     Boulder, 20'   Jesus Boulder
House Boulder 1 East Face -" Hollowlander"   V2-3 5+ PG13     Boulder, 22'   House Boulders
The Man-eater   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   The Man-eater Boulder
Cowboy Messiah   V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 15'   Jesus Boulder
Left Corner Problem   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   The Man-eater Boulder
Right Corner Problem   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   The Man-eater Boulder
Browse More Classics in Black River Falls

Featured Route For Black River Falls
In the biz before the huck.

Cowboy Messiah V4 6B PG13  WI : Black River Falls : Jesus Boulder
One of the more unique problems in Wisconsin. Start by getting on the saddle-like boulder under the center of the boulder. Use toe hooks and core tension to establish one's self. A sick catch of a left rail and Big throw to the slopping lip brings you to the engaging mantle. There ain't much for holds, but the friction's off the charts!- super fun, git on it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Black River Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Super Slab might be a bit too slabby to actually warrant climbing it.  But it does appear that this was climbed once upon a time.
Super Slab might be a bit too slabby to actually w...
Travis Kaney - To my left is Penguin Boulder Face.  Nothing here but chalk far left in crack next to Penguin, a small chalk mark next to my right wrist and the initials "NE". <br /> <br />anyone know the FA?
BETA PHOTO: Travis Kaney - To my left is Penguin Boulder Face....
this boulder may have something to offer on the face but nothing more.
this boulder may have something to offer on the fa...
Relatively featureless wall = TR or Trad climb? (see comment below).  Talked to someone who claimed to climb it on TR
Relatively featureless wall = TR or Trad climb? (s...
Another good day at BRF
Another good day at BRF
Anti-Christ Boulder
Anti-Christ Boulder
Estranged boulder along the foot trail (trail between the Overlook and Nature trails).  Possibilities.
Estranged boulder along the foot trail (trail betw...
Anti-Christ Boulder
Anti-Christ Boulder
This boulder may have a possible problem or 2.  To be developed?
This boulder may have a possible problem or 2. To...
Boulder B - This fatty is sitting down trail of Boulder A and has a couple possible problems on it (probably 4).  8' tall, super pockety on the left, a couple cracks.  Didn't try cleaning armed with only two small brushes.
Boulder B - This fatty is sitting down trail of Bo...
This boulder is just past Super Slab and is about the same size as the Cube.  It could have some killer potential but... <br />1. it needs lots of cleaning <br />2. it's a bit farther than many other boulders <br />either way, it looks fun.
This boulder is just past Super Slab and is about ...
Boulder B - picture from the right side.  Cool (but likely flakey/chossy) feature in the middle of face, and decent holds on right.  needs mega cleaning.
Boulder B - picture from the right side. Cool (bu...
Fun warm up downhill from the Jesus boulder start with crimp and two finger pocket to big sloper then big move to sloper and top out
BETA PHOTO: Fun warm up downhill from the Jesus boulder start ...
Comments on Black River Falls Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 1, 2014
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 1, 2007

If anyone knows FA's or grades for any of the problems here, do share. I've been climbing here for roughly 10 years and I don't know all the history.

By EB
From: Winona
Jul 23, 2007

Nice work Remo, BRF has some of the best stone in the state. The park seems to have a dont ask, dont tell policy on climbing. So few people visit the park that climbers presence isn't really noticed. One of the more esthetic places to climb in the state as well.

By TravisK
From: Madison
Oct 17, 2010

There has been some development happening at least in the last 6 months.

- chalk right of Penguin Boulder. If anyone knows about these problems, please post!
- TR(/Trad?) climb just up the trail from the Cube and Penguin boulders. On the left, just after short prow on the trail (just under the overlook point). Featureless wall until about halfway up, then there is a decent roof.
- met a few climbers a couple weeks ago developing some problems no more than 50 feet further up the trail from the cube.

I'll try and get out in the next week or 2 and snap some photos of areas.

By EB
From: Winona
Nov 1, 2010

Travis, we have been developing a bunch of new stuff at BRF. The problems we have been working on range from super hard(Porcelain wall traverse- to pretty easy/but nonetheless good) We plan on being out there friday if you want to join- the temps are fantastic this week. Were you out there with a female climbing on the maneater? We'd be happy to give you the tour some time. Cheers.

By Alec Carraux
From: Holmen, WI
Nov 4, 2010

Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to climbing but i've been trying to get out here every weekend or so. I recently came across a line that I didn't recognize just off the trail about 100ft back from The Cube, slightly downhill. It's a face about 30 high (faces down the hill) with a large crack running up it. I'll go out and take some pictures of it this weekend and get your input on it. So far I haven't seen anything about it on this website.

By EB
From: Winona
Nov 4, 2010

Sounds like the south face of the 4th house boulder. Dave G. and crew I'm sure sent most lines on it, However we,ve started working on a traverse of the whole thing that is really good, not sure if they got to that though. Regardless there's much to be sent still there. Hopefully tomarrow will be a day t clean a bunch up.

By Alec Carraux
From: Holmen, WI
Nov 4, 2010

Now that I look at it, yeah, that looks like what we were working on. I'm trying to get out there this weekend so if you guys set up some new routes, i'd love to see them.

By TravisK
From: Madison
Nov 9, 2010

EB, yeah that was me climbing on Maneater a couple weekends ago. I'd love to see the tour sometime but it looks like this weekend might be rainy... Anyhow, I'll be out whenever possible until the snow falls (and then I'll get restless and shovel out some of the boulders and climb anyways)

By EB
From: Winona
Nov 9, 2010

Travis, we'll be hanging out there a bunch over the next few weeks; a bunch of projects to get done! But this is THE season, we only get about four weeks a year of premo conditions from mid-nov to mid-dec. We have been talking a bout having a bouldering gathering there in a few weeks, I'll keep you posted.

By TravisK
From: Madison
Nov 11, 2010

Definitely. I'll make of point of getting down there with some friends soon.

By nicros fivten
Nov 19, 2010

Is anyone climbing there this weekend? I would love to get down there and check it out. I am thinking Saturday November 20th...
Drop me a line nic@nicros.com if you are going to be around.

By nicros fivten
Nov 24, 2010

Anyone up for a sesh this weekend? I need to get out here... Hit me up nic@nicros.com

By EB
From: Winona
Nov 24, 2010

Next week. a bunch will be there to celebrate hopefully not, the end of he season and hopefully send the last of the projects! Sat. Night fire/cookout/storytellin'.... All are welcome. Come raise a glass to a great year and those who have fallen

By Scott Thalacker
From: Logan, UT
Apr 8, 2011

On the condition report, I went out earlier this week. Not as muddy as I'd thought it would be.

There are human made things attached to the rock on the overlook area. For example, giant staircases and a metal platform, among other things. Anybody know who is responsible for these? PM me? We should be careful about this...

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 8, 2011

Careful? How do you mean? It's state land, and a state forest campground right there. I suppose the DNR looks after the lookout tower and stuff.

By Scott Thalacker
From: Logan, UT
Apr 9, 2011

I'm particularly interested in the 'other things'. Anybody who knows what I'm talking about?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2011

Ah. I will respond by email. Sorry.

By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Oct 9, 2011

In the "getting there" you head East not West.

By Matt McIntosh
Jan 1, 2014

I've driven past BRF countless times to and from northern Wisconsin and MN. Is there anything to be done on the prominent block or spire near the BRF exit? It has always caught my eye when driving on 94