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Black Rider 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: David Rabine
Page Views: 2,601
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Bryan Ferris on Black Rider. Photo by Joseph Lascu...
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Description 

Difficult thin face climbing past one bolt eases to a sloping ledge. Continue past another bolt on easier face moves to reach the anchor.


Protection 

Two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. The anchor may be reached to set up a TR from the back side of the climb.



Photos of Black Rider Slideshow Add Photo
Chis making progress on Black Rider (5.11a)
Chis making progress on Black Rider (5.11a)
Michael Levato on Black Rider. Photo by Joseph Lascurain.
Michael Levato on Black Rider. Photo by Joseph Las...
Michael Levato on Black Rider. Photo by Joseph Lascurain.
Michael Levato on Black Rider. Photo by Joseph Las...
Comments on Black Rider Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 30, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Seemed impossible at first. Once the sequence is figured out this climb goes solid, I swear it. Try going straight up the orange rock as opposed to from the left as the climber in the photo for a more direct line. Very fun climb but tough to figure out.
EDIT - I just upped my stars for this climb. Every move requires thought and many are equally difficult. Rock is solid albeit slippery. One of my favorites at Mission Gorge.

By Sebastian
From: Irvine
Jan 29, 2007

Very nice climb, hard but great.

Attention in the Upper Part when you stand over the ledge, the big grip (the only one) is a little loose. So take care with the force on it.

Have fun.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Mar 5, 2010

Definitely makes this rock instantly classic for me, between shadowfax and this face climb... to think I thought I would never tackle both.

By The Keels
Sep 5, 2011

What's the beta for getting up to the ledge once you are in that matched hand position of the guy in picture 2? Got up to that move reasonably successfully but failed miserably trying to mantel onto the ledge.

By bryan ferris
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

keels I'm the guy in pic 3. the move involves allot of power and nerves of steel. you need to mantel on to where your hands are. look for a right foot once you start to pull your feet up. it feels good to finally stand on the ledge and clip bolt two.

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 11, 2013

If you find the right mantle sequence for your height, the mantle ends up feeling physically easier than the moves leading up to it.