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This route can be anywhere from a 5.8 to a 5.12, depending on where you climb in relation to the bolts. If you climb generally straight up through the bolt line it's a 5.9. You can dodge the crux by heading right to a flake (5.8) and still reach the bolt. Climbing to the left of the bolts is considerably harder.
On the wall to the right of the Amphitheater. Look for a bolt line toward the right end of the face.
5 rusty bolts, anchors
Taken just to the right of the belay spot.
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 25, 2010
The 5.12 variation of this route is both forced and contrived. I've tried it left, direct, and right, but I've never been able to find a 5.12 variation to it. Unless you are skipping holds then it just becomes a 5.12 eliminate. Regardless this is a great lead for any leader and offers great views of the valleys below Pilot Mtn.
|By George Heib|
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
I have never looked at the 12 variation of this route, but I would give it a 9- rating. The first bolt is a bit sketch to clip, but after that the rest of the route is really enjoyable. I would be very careful clipping the fourth bolt have seen a few twisted ankles on falls back down to the ledge, but it is a nice 5.8is climb up high with all left hand clips.
Feb 26, 2013
An additional bolt has been placed below the first original bolt (now three on the first wall). This is now a much safer start without as much chance of breaking your ankles. Bill Webster is responsible for the addition of the bolt with the Parks approval.
|By Michael McClarty|
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
great warm up route to get ready for the amphitheater. an easy 5.9 lots of rests. first bolt is easy enough and the ground is debris free so no fear. bring a picnic for a good time at the midpoint ledge
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
New first bolt helps the beginning leader. Toughest part of this climb is the move up from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt.