Black Rabbit  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Vernon & Kodas Submitted By:  Richard Shore on Jul 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Black Rabbit

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Description 

A technical thin seam and flaring tips-to-finger crack. A fine single-pitch route at the Needles.

Start by stemming up the shallow LF dihedral, protected with thin nuts. Pull over the bulge and into the flared & insecure finger crack above. Trust the shallow toe jams and work your way to the top. This feels like a harder version of Dave's Deviation 5.9 at Tahquitz Rock.

Location 

On the upper west face of the Necromancer, starting at a healthy oak tree. To access the base, scramble up the 3rd class gully between the Witch and the Necromancer (near the start for Phosphorescent Flow, Witch Doctor). Alternatively, one may rappel the route after climbing Silver Threads 5.10 on the Necromancer.

Protection 

#4-8 BD stoppers, double cams from #0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot. A single 0.75 and 1 Camalot. 2 bolt rap anchor.

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Rob Beno following Black Rabbit 5.10a

Rob Beno on Black Rabbit 5.10a