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Necromancer Needle
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Black Rabbit T 
Silver Threads T 

Black Rabbit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Vernon & Kodas
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 2, 2012

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Rob Beno following Black Rabbit 5.10a

Description 

A technical thin seam and flaring tips-to-finger crack. A fine single-pitch route at the Needles.

Start by stemming up the shallow LF dihedral, protected with thin nuts. Pull over the bulge and into the flared & insecure finger crack above. Trust the shallow toe jams and work your way to the top. This feels like a harder version of Dave's Deviation 5.9 at Tahquitz Rock.


Location 

On the upper west face of the Necromancer, starting at a healthy oak tree. To access the base, scramble up the 3rd class gully between the Witch and the Necromancer (near the start for Phosphorescent Flow, Witch Doctor). Alternatively, one may rappel the route after climbing Silver Threads 5.10 on the Necromancer.


Protection 

#4-8 BD stoppers, double cams from #0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot. A single 0.75 and 1 Camalot. 2 bolt rap anchor.



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Black Rabbit
Black Rabbit
Rob Beno on Black Rabbit 5.10a
Rob Beno on Black Rabbit 5.10a
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By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is another one of those Needles routes that gets no traffic and is overshadowed by all the classics nearby. This route would be considered excellent pretty much anywhere. I found gear as big as a #2 BD C4, but the gear is mostly thin. From the start it looks like there's no gear, but it's all there. I cleaned the crack out with my nut tool on rappel for the next climbers that try it. Get on it!