Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Acrophile
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrophobia T 
Badger Crack T 
Black Powder T 
Claustrophobia T 
Dead Deer Cracks T 
Iced Tea T 
Lithophyte T 
Pine Straw T 
South Slabs T,S 
Stiff Lipped T 
Yawning Flake T 
Yellow Jersey T 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Powder 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B. Gillett, D. Snively, 2002
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Here is a shot of the crux pitch on P2....

Description 

This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system.

P1: (5.7, 75 feet, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.

P2: (5.9+, 75 feet, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun, RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.

P3: (5.5, 100 feet, 1 star) Follow thin cracks in the blunt arete, and traverse left under the summit block. Follow broken terrain up and right to rap anchors.

Rap 2 times from 2-bolt anchors. A 70m is nice, since the rappels are right at 100 feet.

Location 

Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system.

Protection 

Rack to #3 Camalot, w/ doubles in large fingers ---> hands....


Comments on Black Powder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb, nice cracks, good gear at the cruxes. I combined the first 2 pitches, didn't find any pins, but belayed on very small cams at the base of the gully. Used doubles of most cams up to a #2 Camalot. The #3 was good to have after the crux. I ran the rope over the roof (not around the end of the roof) and had no concerns about it getting into the crack.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Dec 28, 2014

At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.

You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!