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This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system.
P1: (5.7, 75ft, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.
P2: (5.9+, 75ft, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.
P3: (5.5, 100ft, 1 star) Follow thin cracks in the blunt arete and traverse left under the summit block. Follow broken terrain up and right to rap anchors.
Rap 2 times from 2-bolt anchors. A 70M is nice, since the rappels are right at 100ft.
Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system.
Rack to #3 Camalot, w/ doubles in large fingers ---> hands....
|By Ben Burnett|
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Great climb, nice cracks, good gear at the cruxes. I combined the first 2 pitches, didn't find any pins, but belayed on very small cams at the base of the gully. Used doubles of most cams up to a #2 Camalot. The #3 was good to have after the crux. I ran the rope over the roof (not around the end of the roof) and had no concerns about it getting into the crack.