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 ADVANCED
The Acrophile
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrophobia T 
Badger Crack T 
Black Powder T 
Dead Deer Cracks T 
Iced Tea T 
Lithophyte T 
Pine Straw T 
South Slabs T,S 
Yawning Flake T 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Powder 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B. Gillett, D. Snively, 2002
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Here is a shot of the crux pitch on P2....

Description 

This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system.

P1: (5.7, 75ft, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.

P2: (5.9+, 75ft, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.

P3: (5.5, 100ft, 1 star) Follow thin cracks in the blunt arete and traverse left under the summit block. Follow broken terrain up and right to rap anchors.

Rap 2 times from 2-bolt anchors. A 70M is nice, since the rappels are right at 100ft.


Location 

Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system.


Protection 

Rack to #3 Camalot, w/ doubles in large fingers ---> hands....



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By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb, nice cracks, good gear at the cruxes. I combined the first 2 pitches, didn't find any pins, but belayed on very small cams at the base of the gully. Used doubles of most cams up to a #2 Camalot. The #3 was good to have after the crux. I ran the rope over the roof (not around the end of the roof) and had no concerns about it getting into the crack.