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 ADVANCED
Screamweaver Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Planet T,S 
Boldfingers T 
Chicken Head City T 
Coldfingers T 
Finishing School Blues T,S 
Free for All S 
Friday the 13th T,S 
Golden Blend S 
Leapin' Lizards T 
Pumping In Rhythm T 
Screamweaver T 
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 
unknown T 
Zydygo T 
Unsorted Routes:
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Black Planet 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Season: cooler temps good
Page Views: 1,666
Submitted By: ChanVan on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Looking Glass Outfitters very own Phil Hoffmann st...

Description 

A classic one-move wonder that climbs one of the coolest dihedrals around. Clip the bolt, pull the hard move, clip the pin, then stem your way up and out the perfect corner to the top.

Location 

To the left of Zydygo- the obvious dihedral that you want to climb.

Protection 

One bolt, one pin, then small nuts and cams.


Photos of Black Planet Slideshow Add Photo
At the top of the all-too-short dihedral
At the top of the all-too-short dihedral

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By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a really fun climb. The crux is significantly harder than the rest, but the climbing isn't over afterwards by any means. The stemming is mega fun, and the roof at the top is committing and interesting.
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