Black Plague  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Goin' crazy for monos at the Black Plague crux.

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Black Plague is one of the best 5.13s in Southern New Mexico. The line ascends a stunningly beautiful pair of black streaks, up a gentle overhang with technical, powerful moves. The route is notorious for the double mono crux at the second bolt, where strong fingers are helpful, but impeccable movement can reduce the tweak factor significantly. Above the monos the holds stay small, but less tweaky. The route snakes right, left, and back right between the black streaks, before surmounting the final tufa roof. On the headwall a few slabby moves will keep your attention as you head to the chains.

Location 

Ascends the beautiful black streaks near the left end of the Mad Cow Wall.

Protection 

Bolts.

Photos of Black Plague Slideshow

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Ed crushing the small holds Black Plague (5.13)	Starting the final crux Black Plague (5.13)	Heading towards another send Black Plague (5.13)