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Black Peeler Buttress

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Peeler Face 
South Face 

Black Peeler Buttress  


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Location: 40.5736, -111.7488 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 83,930
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004
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The last pitch. Photo courtesy of Andrew Burr.

On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

Getting There 

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

33 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',7],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Peeler Buttress:
Peeler Direct   A2     Aid, 1 pitch, 100'   Peeler Face
Western Grebe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 460'   South Face
Western Grebe Mantel Var.   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Face
Fool's Paradise   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   South Face
Great Grebes, Batman!   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   South Face
Dark of the Moon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   South Face
Sportsman's Paradise   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 215'   South Face
The Serpent   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'   Peeler Face
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Peeler Face
Browse More Classics in Black Peeler Buttress

Featured Route For Black Peeler Buttress
From the GWI parking lot, with belays and line drawn in.

All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! WI5 M6 R  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Peeler Face
Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location. Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jun 25, 2009
It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).